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Water in the fuel question
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Float Flyr



Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland

PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 5:04 pm    Post subject: Water in the fuel question Reply with quote

I’d like to chime in on this one

To start with 100 LL has a very low affinity to absorb water so any water you find in it will turn up in the prescribed 15 to 20 minutes in either your sumps or the gascolator.
The great advantage to 100 LL is the recipe never changes so the gallon (which does change) you buy at your local FBO will be the same gas the world over. In other words if it works for you home it will work for you in Timbuktu.

Gas caps certainly can leak but assuming that they are not leaking a full tank will condense moisture out of damp air a lot less than an empty tank. I know this from personal experience and living in one of the dampest most corrosive places in the world.

MOGAS:
This has several problems among which are the seasonal changing of the recipe and that is only one refinery. Everybody seems to have their own recipe which changes at the drop of a hat.
Mogas may have Ethanol, a pet peeve of mine in it. Training in the aviation field tells me this is totally unacceptable. Reason tells me some guys have to fly on it so just be extra careful if this is your case. Always use the freshest fuel you can (less chance of water in the fuel) never leave fuel in your plane for extended periods of time (it can absorb moisture from the tie down or hangar) If you depend on a gascolator to remove water from your fuel the ethanol just killed that idea. By the time you see drop one you will also see gallon one.... Bad news!
I think removing ethanol from the gas with water is not as bad as some think it is. All the components of the gas have extremely low ability to combine with water. It is somewhere in the decimal parts per many millions.

If you get a phase separation your fan, the big thing on the front, or back of the plane will stop! After your perfect forced approach with unmixed gas you will drain your sumps and carb bowls and then look for a place to take off. If you were using mixed gas be prepared to pull the whole fuel system apart and clean out the milky grey/tan sludge that will plug everything except the gates of hell. While you are cleaning the mess write me and I’ll provide you with four letter words most of the world doesn’t know.

I’m going to try to explain what Barry has said in my own way.

For all intents and purposes water and the components of gasoline do not in any way mix or join. The lone exception to the rule ie ethanol which loves to form a solution with water.
Alcohol, booze, hooch,the good stuff in Scotch, forms a phase relationship with gas. This is something like a solution but, BIG BUT, It can be physically reversed.
Methods of physically reversing include adding enough water to disrupt the phase relationship with the gas...hence a phase separation.
Phase separations occur with lower concentrations of water as the temperature lowers. Like when you fly your plane.
The really bad news is that there is no way of knowing exactly how close you are to a phase separation because you never know how much moisture your fuel has absorbed at the station or in the tanks of your plane. If you are able to remove a quantity of gas into a clean jar and notice it is getting hazy it would be a good time to ditch the gas. This is why I advise only flying on the freshest fuel you can find from the busiest station.

After fuelling any plane especially one with clean gasoline (no eth) you always want to head to the coffee shop for twenty minutes and catch up with news while your gas settles. After the twenty minutes drain your sumps to make sure there is no water in your fuel. The same thing goes for adding water to gas to remove ethanol. Wait at least twenty minutes to drain the water/ethanol solution from the bottom of your container.

Noel

From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE
Sent: September 6, 2010 10:27 PM
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Water in the fuel question


Roger:


Too many questions Smile



1 - 100LL should have the least amount of contaminates due to the SUPPOSED quality control.

2 - 100LL may have more water due to the DIFFERENT types of storage and the age of the tanks [above ground & below ground].

3 - 100LL may have more water due to the quantity of fuel being sold... Ever notice the airports will NEVER tell you how many gallons they sell a week.

4 - Some planes have much more of a problem with water than others. I have quite a few hours in a Piper Cherokee and Comanche as well as a RV6 and all three of them have the flush mounted gas caps. And all of them have water in the tanks.

I would LQQK first and blame first the gas cap before blaming the 100LL. It is a well know trick to put a patch of plastic Velcro On top of the gas cap and the other half on the inside of a 1 Lb coffee can lid. This does a lot to keep water out.

------------------------- AutoGas -------------------

5 - MoGas - Has it own problems - The first being The Cheep Ass - Money Grubbing - Low Life - Non-English speaking owners that put water into their tanks to cut price during Gas Wars. There was a gas station in my area that was closed by the Bureau of Weights & Measures for just that reason about one year after being closed because of illegal pumps (shorting the public). The next issue was water in the gas.

6 - MoGas - Probably does have higher levels of contaminates due to lower quality control of EVERYTHING from octant to transportation, storage and dispensing.

7 - MoGas - Should have lower contaminates due to the higher turn-over.

8 - MoGas - In my area the wise old government made it a requirement that ALL in-ground-tanks must be a fiberglass or plastic composition. This came to light when the wise old government made it a requirement that MTBE be used to reduce pollutant at the un-tested request of the EPA. The MTBE found all the small holes in the gas tanks and polluted the ground waters as well as making pump-jockeys sick. Now when theses pump-jockey's started reporting to hospitals for treatment the CDC (Center for Disease Control) was first contacted because of the wide spread and similarity of cases. Some financial saving that was!

9 - MoGas - and who else other than the wise old government made it a requirement in my area NJ-NY that ethanol be added to the gas. 10% less HP, 10% Less fuel economy and 100% more problems. Just ask the boating industry in coastal ares that ethanol is suppled.



OK! Enough - But, as Roger mentioned water is NOT absorbed. It IS held in SUSPENSION. And it takes about 15 minutes for water to come out of suspension, IF there is no movement. So, what does that tell you.... Checking your freshly filled tanks does not show if there is water in your gas. Of course, if there is enough water you sure will see it.



AND... Some one mentioned 'solution' it is NOT a solution, it is a suspension. There is NO chemical combining of water and gas. The ethanol IS in solution the water is in suspension. The ethanol in solution is a mixture, forming a total different compound.



Now, water can be a good thing... There is a way of ethanol removal from gas.

WATER - As someone did mention ethanol is hygroscopic. That means the ethanol will adsorb water. So...

Lets say you have a gas with 10% ethanol...

ADD 10% of the gas volume in water... 10 Gal Gas = 1 Gal water.

Shake it up...

Let it stand for 1 hour...

From the bottom of the container drain off the water... Which is heavier than the gas/ethanol mixture...

Which will have the Water with the ethanol attached to it.

Works in the lab all the time.



OK, sorry.... this is the end.



Barry
















On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 6:34 PM, Roger Lee <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com (ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
--> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com (ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com)>

Hi Guys,,

Question:

Which fuel are you more likely to see water in, 100LL or our present day 91 Oct when you catch your sample down at the gascolator? Why?

p.s.
If you find it in one verses the other what should yo do?

--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
520-574-1080




Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311301#311301







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Float Flyr



Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland

PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 5:38 pm    Post subject: Water in the fuel question Reply with quote

In a word ...Yes! by at least three RON.

Worst part is most of the octane boosters available not very strong.
Ethanol has an RON of 116.

Noel

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Float Flyr



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Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland

PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 5:52 pm    Post subject: Water in the fuel question Reply with quote

Pete have you considered distilling the water eth mixture to make fuel for a table alcohol burner. They put something into the alcohol to make it unpalatable even with distillation. Pure eth added to the gas of a so called flex fuel vehicle may make it run more efficiently. If I remember my high school chemistry correctly ethanol distils off at around 78.5C. You can even get solar heaters to run the still! Apparently quantities of alcohol less than a gallon are legal to make in the U.S..

Noel

From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete Christensen
Sent: September 7, 2010 11:43 AM
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Water in the fuel question



Here is my experience with removing ethanol from gasoline.

In the North Austin, Texas area I have found no source for gasoline without ethanol. The nearest I have found is more than an hours drive away without any nearby airport. I could load up my van with 5-gallon cans, but buying the cans and the cost of time and fuel for my van would make that difficult.

I have read everything I can on the subject on the Internet and have corresponded with a few of you online.

Here is what I came up with. Last week I bought a 6-1/2 gallon carboy used for making beer. I put 1 quart of water in the carboy and marked a line at the top of the water. I then poured 5-1/2 gallons of high-test gasohol into the jug. The pouring action stimulates the ethanol to begin separation from the mix. After awhile the water-ethanol has separated from the mix and I mark a new line that indicates the new level of the bottom of cleaned gasoline. I use a siphon to siphon the cleaned gasoline off the top of the water/ethanol leaving a gallon or so of good gas to avoid siphoning up any water. (Note I do NOT pour the out this gas/water/alcohol from the jug.) I can continue pouring gasohol into the carboy and the process starts all over again. After a gallon or two of water/ethanol builds up, I siphon the water/ethanol from the bottom of the jug and add a little more water.

I pour this cleaned gas into my plane through a Mr. Funnel Fuel Filter Funnel, which is supposed to remove any remaining water. (I found no detectable water in the filter after pouring 10 gallons)

I have run this so far about 50/50 with avgas I had in my tank.

I have only flown the one time a couple days ago for more than an hour with no problems. Time will tell if problems develop.

I am NOT endorsing this process for others but only describing what I am doing.

Pete

Kitfox III SN 1000

912

On 9/6/2010 7:56 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
Roger:


Too many questions Smile



1 - 100LL should have the least amount of contaminates due to the SUPPOSED quality control.

2 - 100LL may have more water due to the DIFFERENT types of storage and the age of the tanks [above ground & below ground].

3 - 100LL may have more water due to the quantity of fuel being sold... Ever notice the airports will NEVER tell you how many gallons they sell a week.

4 - Some planes have much more of a problem with water than others. I have quite a few hours in a Piper Cherokee and Comanche as well as a RV6 and all three of them have the flush mounted gas caps. And all of them have water in the tanks.

I would LQQK first and blame first the gas cap before blaming the 100LL. It is a well know trick to put a patch of plastic Velcro On top of the gas cap and the other half on the inside of a 1 Lb coffee can lid. This does a lot to keep water out.

------------------------- AutoGas -------------------

5 - MoGas - Has it own problems - The first being The Cheep Ass - Money Grubbing - Low Life - Non-English speaking owners that put water into their tanks to cut price during Gas Wars. There was a gas station in my area that was closed by the Bureau of Weights & Measures for just that reason about one year after being closed because of illegal pumps (shorting the public). The next issue was water in the gas.

6 - MoGas - Probably does have higher levels of contaminates due to lower quality control of EVERYTHING from octant to transportation, storage and dispensing.

7 - MoGas - Should have lower contaminates due to the higher turn-over.

8 - MoGas - In my area the wise old government made it a requirement that ALL in-ground-tanks must be a fiberglass or plastic composition. This came to light when the wise old government made it a requirement that MTBE be used to reduce pollutant at the un-tested request of the EPA. The MTBE found all the small holes in the gas tanks and polluted the ground waters as well as making pump-jockeys sick. Now when theses pump-jockey's started reporting to hospitals for treatment the CDC (Center for Disease Control) was first contacted because of the wide spread and similarity of cases. Some financial saving that was!

9 - MoGas - and who else other than the wise old government made it a requirement in my area NJ-NY that ethanol be added to the gas. 10% less HP, 10% Less fuel economy and 100% more problems. Just ask the boating industry in coastal ares that ethanol is suppled.



OK! Enough - But, as Roger mentioned water is NOT absorbed. It IS held in SUSPENSION. And it takes about 15 minutes for water to come out of suspension, IF there is no movement. So, what does that tell you.... Checking your freshly filled tanks does not show if there is water in your gas. Of course, if there is enough water you sure will see it.



AND... Some one mentioned 'solution' it is NOT a solution, it is a suspension. There is NO chemical combining of water and gas. The ethanol IS in solution the water is in suspension. The ethanol in solution is a mixture, forming a total different compound.



Now, water can be a good thing... There is a way of ethanol removal from gas.

WATER - As someone did mention ethanol is hygroscopic. That means the ethanol will adsorb water. So...

Lets say you have a gas with 10% ethanol...

ADD 10% of the gas volume in water... 10 Gal Gas = 1 Gal water.

Shake it up...

Let it stand for 1 hour...

From the bottom of the container drain off the water... Which is heavier than the gas/ethanol mixture...

Which will have the Water with the ethanol attached to it.

Works in the lab all the time.



OK, sorry.... this is the end.



Barry
















On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 6:34 PM, Roger Lee <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com (ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
--> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com (ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com)>

Hi Guys,,

Question:

Which fuel are you more likely to see water in, 100LL or our present day 91 Oct when you catch your sample down at the gascolator? Why?

p.s.
If you find it in one verses the other what should yo do?

--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
520-574-1080




Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=311301#311301







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===========
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===========
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="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
===========





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Float Flyr



Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland

PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 6:12 pm    Post subject: Water in the fuel question Reply with quote

Lucien the reason to worry a bit about running E10 are:
The tests that Rotax did were done with factory fresh E-10 I doubt there is
a station outside Nevada that can provide that fuel just because it absorbs
moisture right out of the air.
The tests that Rotax did only apply to the engine. I doubt the SB covers
tanks, fuel lines or the pumps.

Basically all they said is E-10 ( in it's pure state) won't croak your
engine. Then again if E-10 contaminated with moisture starts to dissolve
the white metal of the carbs then they sell more parts.

Noel

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Float Flyr



Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland

PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 6:15 pm    Post subject: Water in the fuel question Reply with quote

It’s a dirt big glass bottle....  usually with a slender neck on it.

Noel

From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Borger
Sent: September 7, 2010 2:06 PM
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Water in the fuel question



Carlos,



Go to Wikipedia & search on "carboy".



Bob

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 7, 2010, at 11:41, Carlos Trigo <trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt (trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt)> wrote:
[quote]
Pete

I find your procedure interesting.
Will you please explain to a non-American, non-native English speaking guy, what is a CARBOY?

TIA
Carlos







[b]


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rparigoris



Joined: 24 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 11:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Water in the fuel question Reply with quote

What's thoughts on adding more alcohol to E-10?

I owned a 1948 Cessna 170 for 19 years. It had two fuel tanks on starboard side and one on port. Thus right wing sat slightly lower (think gear took a slight set). Anyway it never came from factory with fuel tank sump drains, but some were early on were added to inboard tanks. The problem was the low point where drain was, was about 1/16"' higher than the low point.

Bottom line was if water got in tank you couldn't drain it all of it out. I would first drain port wing, then right away taxi to a spot that raised right wing and do my preflight, then drain out right wing. Problem was there was small beads that would get stuck that you could not drain out no matter how long you let plane sit.

Several times after flying for a few hours the engine would quit, after pumping carb accelerator like mad and motor would come back to life. Once in ground effect over the Great South Bay. Not too much fun. It was a little more than a small gasculator worth of water that would do the deed of having my engine play silent night.

I began adding Isopropyl alcohol, about 1 pint to starboard wing and 1/2 pint to port wing if I found any water at all. For most of the time I owned plane it served me well, never had another.

Now my question about my 914 powered Europa that holds 18 gallons.
When using E-10, if I were going to fly at altitudes over 8 or 9K, found even 1 drop of water in gasculator or sumps, or was going to get fuel colder than when I purchased it would it, would it be a bad thing to add 1 pint of 100% Isopropyl alcohol (~.7%) to keep that water in suspension?

Ron Parigoris


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lucien



Joined: 03 Jun 2007
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Location: santa fe, NM

PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 5:58 am    Post subject: Re: Water in the fuel question Reply with quote

Float Flyr wrote:
Lucien the reason to worry a bit about running E10 are:
The tests that Rotax did were done with factory fresh E-10 I doubt there is
a station outside Nevada that can provide that fuel just because it absorbs
moisture right out of the air.
The tests that Rotax did only apply to the engine. I doubt the SB covers
tanks, fuel lines or the pumps.

Basically all they said is E-10 ( in it's pure state) won't croak your
engine. Then again if E-10 contaminated with moisture starts to dissolve
the white metal of the carbs then they sell more parts.

Noel

--


Ok, thanks Noel. Hard to argue with that....

And it is true that most of the problems I've heard about from switching to E10 had to do with the fuel system (I think). I.e. ethanol is a solvent and when suddenly introduced, breaks up any scum that was already there and plugs up the works, etc.....

The only other hazard I've heard about is in the carbs, where the float needle is tipped with Viton. Someone one here said at one time that Viton had only marginal resistence to ethanol?

When I do run E10, I do significantly shorten the amount of time I let the gas sit in the tank or let the engine sit without running at least once up to operating temperature. Pretty much no longer than a week for either.

Other than that, if the choice is between E10 and 100LL, I strongly prefer E10 as the hazards there for the engine long-term are much less than from the lead in 100LL.

Sure hope that unleaded avgas alternative to 100LL shows up soon Wink

LS


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 6:55 am    Post subject: Water in the fuel question Reply with quote

Yes Noel, I plan to do that then I can have a snoot before I take off. ;>)

Pete


On 9/7/2010 8:51 PM, Noel Loveys wrote: [quote] <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
Pete have you considered distilling the water eth mixture to make fuel for a table alcohol burner. They put something into the alcohol to make it unpalatable even with distillation. Pure eth added to the gas of a so called flex fuel vehicle may make it run more efficiently. If I remember my high school chemistry correctly ethanol distils off at around 78.5C. You can even get solar heaters to run the still! Apparently quantities of alcohol less than a gallon are legal to make in the U.S..

Noel

From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Pete Christensen
Sent: September 7, 2010 11:43 AM
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com (rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Water in the fuel question



Here is my experience with removing ethanol from gasoline.

In the North Austin, Texas area I have found no source for gasoline without ethanol. The nearest I have found is more than an hours drive away without any nearby airport. I could load up my van with 5-gallon cans, but buying the cans and the cost of time and fuel for my van would make that difficult.

I have read everything I can on the subject on the Internet and have corresponded with a few of you online.

Here is what I came up with. Last week I bought a 6-1/2 gallon carboy used for making beer. I put 1 quart of water in the carboy and marked a line at the top of the water. I then poured 5-1/2 gallons of high-test gasohol into the jug. The pouring action stimulates the ethanol to begin separation from the mix. After awhile the water-ethanol has separated from the mix and I mark a new line that indicates the new level of the bottom of cleaned gasoline. I use a siphon to siphon the cleaned gasoline off the top of the water/ethanol leaving a gallon or so of good gas to avoid siphoning up any water. (Note I do NOT pour the out this gas/water/alcohol from the jug.) I can continue pouring gasohol into the carboy and the process starts all over again. After a gallon or two of water/ethanol builds up, I siphon the water/ethanol from the bottom of the jug and add a little more water.

I pour this cleaned gas into my plane through a Mr. Funnel Fuel Filter Funnel, which is supposed to remove any remaining water. (I found no detectable water in the filter after pouring 10 gallons)

I have run this so far about 50/50 with avgas I had in my tank.

I have only flown the one time a couple days ago for more than an hour with no problems. Time will tell if problems develop.

I am NOT endorsing this process for others but only describing what I am doing.

Pete

Kitfox III SN 1000

912

On 9/6/2010 7:56 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
Roger:


Too many questions Smile



1 - 100LL should have the least amount of contaminates due to the SUPPOSED quality control.

2 - 100LL may have more water due to the DIFFERENT types of storage and the age of the tanks [above ground & below ground].

3 - 100LL may have more water due to the quantity of fuel being sold... Ever notice the airports will NEVER tell you how many gallons they sell a week.

4 - Some planes have much more of a problem with water than others. I have quite a few hours in a Piper Cherokee and Comanche as well as a RV6 and all three of them have the flush mounted gas caps. And all of them have water in the tanks.

I would LQQK first and blame first the gas cap before blaming the 100LL. It is a well know trick to put a patch of plastic Velcro On top of the gas cap and the other half on the inside of a 1 Lb coffee can lid. This does a lot to keep water out.

------------------------- AutoGas -------------------

5 - MoGas - Has it own problems - The first being The Cheep Ass - Money Grubbing - Low Life - Non-English speaking owners that put water into their tanks to cut price during Gas Wars. There was a gas station in my area that was closed by the Bureau of Weights & Measures for just that reason about one year after being closed because of illegal pumps (shorting the public). The next issue was water in the gas.

6 - MoGas - Probably does have higher levels of contaminates due to lower quality control of EVERYTHING from octant to transportation, storage and dispensing.

7 - MoGas - Should have lower contaminates due to the higher turn-over.

8 - MoGas - In my area the wise old government made it a requirement that ALL in-ground-tanks must be a fiberglass or plastic composition. This came to light when the wise old government made it a requirement that MTBE be used to reduce pollutant at the un-tested request of the EPA. The MTBE found all the small holes in the gas tanks and polluted the ground waters as well as making pump-jockeys sick. Now when theses pump-jockey's started reporting to hospitals for treatment the CDC (Center for Disease Control) was first contacted because of the wide spread and similarity of cases. Some financial saving that was!

9 - MoGas - and who else other than the wise old government made it a requirement in my area NJ-NY that ethanol be added to the gas. 10% less HP, 10% Less fuel economy and 100% more problems. Just ask the boating industry in coastal ares that ethanol is suppled.



OK! Enough - But, as Roger mentioned water is NOT absorbed. It IS held in SUSPENSION. And it takes about 15 minutes for water to come out of suspension, IF there is no movement. So, what does that tell you.... Checking your freshly filled tanks does not show if there is water in your gas. Of course, if there is enough water you sure will see it.



AND... Some one mentioned 'solution' it is NOT a solution, it is a suspension. There is NO chemical combining of water and gas. The ethanol IS in solution the water is in suspension. The ethanol in solution is a mixture, forming a total different compound.



Now, water can be a good thing... There is a way of ethanol removal from gas.

WATER - As someone did mention ethanol is hygroscopic. That means the ethanol will adsorb water. So...

Lets say you have a gas with 10% ethanol...

ADD 10% of the gas volume in water... 10 Gal Gas = 1 Gal water.

Shake it up...

Let it stand for 1 hour...

From the bottom of the container drain off the water... Which is heavier than the gas/ethanol mixture...

Which will have the Water with the ethanol attached to it.

Works in the lab all the time.



OK, sorry.... this is the end.



Barry
















On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 6:34 PM, Roger Lee <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com (ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
--> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com (ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com)>

Hi Guys,,

Question:

Which fuel are you more likely to see water in, 100LL or our present day 91 Oct when you catch your sample down at the gascolator? Why?

p.s.
If you find it in one verses the other what should yo do?

--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
520-574-1080




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