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fritzsch(at)eskimo.com
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 Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:04 pm Post subject: Fuel Tank Sealing |
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I am about to embark upon the ProSeal adventure and have been scanning
the archives to learn about the process. I still have some questions
that I would like to pose with respect to updates and technique.
1. I purchased my ProSeal in July with an expiration date of 1/11. I
have kept it in the refrigerator since purchase. I assume I will be OK
if I use it this month.
2. Applicators seem to range from plastic bags to syringes and cake
decorators. What works best?
3. What are the tricky areas to watch for?
4. Do you have any recommendations on technique?
5. What precautions should I take?
6. What works best for cleaning up tools?
Dave
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Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings in progress
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Strasnuts
Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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| Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:22 pm Post subject: Fuel Tank Sealing |
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Dave,
One idea I really liked (after I did my tanks) was to assemble the tanks up
to but not including the rear baffle. Let the proseal fully cure and test
the tanks for leaks using fluid. This way you can easily fix any rivet or
rib leaks with the whole back baffle off. After you are satisfied you
completely finish the tank and leak check again. The rear baffle seams
easier to seal since you rivet on the outside of the flange anyway.
---
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_________________
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours |
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Tim Olson
Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2882
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| Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:57 pm Post subject: Fuel Tank Sealing |
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Your proseal should be just fine. In fact, a year from now it
will likely be just fine, if you keep it in the freezer.
I kept mine in the deep freezer. Years later it still works
well.
The applicator that works best is the one that you
personally can use the easiest. I found bags hard to load,
but if you're careful, or if you have help, it should be
easy. Depends on number of hands. I used things like
popsicle sticks a lot...in 2 sizes. Cake decorators wouldn't
be bad, but you're going to need lots, so cost might
keep that option down in some cases. The proseal tubes
can be the easiest, with the gun, but it'll cost more, too.
The cans are nice to mix small batches for small projects.
Wear gloves.
MEK can help clean the tools....along with elbow grease.
Again, wear gloves.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
On 1/1/2011 4:02 PM, Dave Fritzsche (Building) wrote:
| Quote: |
<fritzsch(at)eskimo.com>
I am about to embark upon the ProSeal adventure and have been scanning
the archives to learn about the process. I still have some questions
that I would like to pose with respect to updates and technique.
1. I purchased my ProSeal in July with an expiration date of 1/11. I
have kept it in the refrigerator since purchase. I assume I will be OK
if I use it this month.
2. Applicators seem to range from plastic bags to syringes and cake
decorators. What works best?
3. What are the tricky areas to watch for?
4. Do you have any recommendations on technique?
5. What precautions should I take?
6. What works best for cleaning up tools?
Dave
|
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carl.froehlich(at)verizon
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 4:37 pm Post subject: Fuel Tank Sealing |
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Dave,
Some thoughts:
1. Take a wire brush (tooth brush size) and rough up all rib to skin, rib
to baffle, skin to baffle contact areas. Clean with lacquer thinner when
done.
2. To mix the proseal, I used an old balance scale to weigh out the parts,
then used two popsicle sticks chucked in a cordless drill to mix.
3. I used tough depressor sized sticks (available at your local craft
store) to put a layer on each rib - like icing a cake. Do not apply to the
aft edge (baffle edge) until all the ribs are in and riveted.
4. As you finish riveting the rib to the skin, take an acid brush and put
proseal on top of each shop head as well as along the rib to skin
intersection. If you put enough proseal on during the first step you should
just be taking the excess that is squeezed out and smoothing it out. I used
standard acid brushes but cut down to about 1/4" long. This made them stiff
enough to move the proseal.
5. The rear baffle plate tends to be where people have problems. Put a
layer of proseal on the aft edge of each rib (like step #1), making sure you
put extra dollops in the corners. Put a layer on the top and bottom skins
where the baffle will sit, and put a layer on the top/bottom baffle flange
as well. As you put in the baffle, check that you have proseal squeezing
out of each rivet hole. Rivet the baffle with proseal under each rivet
head.
6. On the fuel sender, put proseal on each side of the sending unit gasket
and under the sender mount screw heads. Don't forget to put in a ground
wire under one of the screw heads so that the sender has a ground. Ground
at the firewall. Photo attached.
7. Put proseal on the tank fittings - on the inside of the tank. Do this
before you put in the baffle. You want the proseal between the rib and the
fitting, as well as on the fitting nuts to prevent anything from backing
out.
8. Clean up with epoxy lacquer thinner (standard Lowes stuff). Mineral
spirits or paint thinner is not strong enough. Don't get too carried away
as you could wash out the proseal from under the rivet heads. Try to keep
the cloth only damp when cleaning up around the rivets.
9. Where gloves and change frequently to minimize cleanup later.
10. One can of proseal will probably not be enough to do both tanks.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (600 hrs)
RV-10 (finished plenum today)
--
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rv10flyer
Joined: 25 Aug 2009
Posts: 364
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| Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 6:19 pm Post subject: Re: Fuel Tank Sealing |
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I used almost one full can per tank. I thinned with 5% toluene by weight(max 15%) for brushing on shop heads and joints before installing baffle. I used about 150 pairs of nitrile gloves, mek for cleaning, respirator plus good ventilation. I used small and large popsicle sticks. Tested to 1 psi after one week of curing using electronic manometer. Have fun!
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Wayne G. |
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