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ceengland(at)bellsouth.ne
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 Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 7:51 am Post subject: tool multitasking |
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OK, I'm cheap.
Is there any chance that the B&C RCT-2 crimper will crimp regular &/or hi-density d-sub pins? If so, I can just buy the RCT-2 instead of both it and the RCT-3.
Will the RCT-3 crimp the hi-density d-sub pins, or is one of the +$100 tools needed for those?
Thanks,
Charlie
[quote][b]
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 8:25 am Post subject: tool multitasking |
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At 10:48 AM 1/22/2011, you wrote:
| Quote: | OK, I'm cheap.
Is there any chance that the B&C RCT-2 crimper will crimp regular &/or hi-density d-sub pins? If so, I can just buy the RCT-2 instead of both it and the RCT-3.
Will the RCT-3 crimp the hi-density d-sub pins, or is one of the +$100 tools needed for those? |
The RCT-2 is a hex-die tool for COAX connectors.
pins, the RCT-3 is a 'quad anvil' crimp tool for
MACHINED pins. They're entirely different breeds
of cat. I'd be cautious about mixing-matching
pins/wires/tools without some careful study
of the end product. The smallest hex on a -2
MIGHT properly close on a d-sub pin but I've not
investigated it.
I have used the -3 tool on hi-density pins and
it seemed to produce a good grip. I thought
I had cross sectioned the joint under the
microscope . . . but I don't find any notes or
photos on the experiment. Therefore, I can't
offer advice based on any solid information.
RCT-1 (PIDG style terminals)
http://www.bandc.biz/pidgstylecrimptool.aspx
RCT-2 (Coax Connectors - Hex dies)
http://www.bandc.biz/bnccoaxconnectorcrimptool.aspx
RCT-3 (Quad-Crimp for machined pins)
http://www.bandc.biz/d-submachinedpincrimptool.aspx
RCT-4 (Butt-cheeks crimp for open barrel formed sheet metal pins)
http://www.bandc.biz/openbarrelcrimptoolratcheting.aspx
which is an upgraded version of BCT-1 tool I used to offer
for open barrel crimps
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
This doesn't mean there are not other recipes
for success using these tools for other-than-offered
purposes. Just proceed with caution.
Bob . . . [quote][b]
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Ed Anderson
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 475
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| Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 8:26 am Post subject: tool multitasking |
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Charlie, the RCT-2 type tool I found appears to be for BNC connectors rather than D sub pins. I have one of the RTC-3 type closed barrel crimper and it works fine for Machined crimp pins/sockets - but, never tried it for the fold type crimp pins - or high density pins. SteinAir has the same tool a bit cheaper - there they state not for use with High Density D sub pins.
See link http://www.steinair.com/tools.htm their equivalent tool is the SAT-004 for $31.00. The also have the crimper needed for the High Density pins - $$$$$$$$$$$$
Ed
[img]cid:B371B43DC66E4A37AD481FED4628A3CC(at)EdPC[/img]
From: Charlie England (ceengland(at)bellsouth.net)
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2011 10:48 AM
To: aeroelectric list (aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: tool multitasking
OK, I'm cheap.
Is there any chance that the B&C RCT-2 crimper will crimp regular &/or hi-density d-sub pins? If so, I can just buy the RCT-2 instead of both it and the RCT-3.
Will the RCT-3 crimp the hi-density d-sub pins, or is one of the +$100 tools needed for those?
Thanks,
Charlie
| Quote: |
title=http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
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_________________
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com |
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tim2542(at)sbcglobal.net
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| Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 8:31 am Post subject: tool multitasking |
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I'm cheap also, but I saved several thousand dollars over having this panel built for me. One of the panel builders qouted me $8K to build the panel and wire it with power only. That did not include the avionics interconnects. So I bought the Daniels crimpers with the proper positioners for about $200, and spent about 3 weeks doing it myself including having the panel CNC cut.
I believe to crimp the HD pins you need the Daniels crimper (or equivalent)
Tim Andres
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
To: aeroelectric list <aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sat, January 22, 2011 7:48:59 AM
Subject: AeroElectric-List: tool multitasking
OK, I'm cheap.
Is there any chance that the B&C RCT-2 crimper will crimp regular &/or hi-density d-sub pins? If so, I can just buy the RCT-2 instead of both it and the RCT-3.
Will the RCT-3 crimp the hi-density d-sub pins, or is one of the +$100 tools needed for those?
Thanks,
Charlie
[quote]http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElect.matronics.com/contribution" rel=nofollow
====== [b]
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ceengland(at)bellsouth.ne
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 9:08 am Post subject: tool multitasking |
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On 1/22/2011 9:21 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote: | Quote: | At 10:48 AM 1/22/2011, you wrote:
| Quote: | OK, I'm cheap.
Is there any chance that the B&C RCT-2 crimper will crimp regular &/or hi-density d-sub pins? If so, I can just buy the RCT-2 instead of both it and the RCT-3.
Will the RCT-3 crimp the hi-density d-sub pins, or is one of the +$100 tools needed for those? |
The RCT-2 is a hex-die tool for COAX connectors.
pins, the RCT-3 is a 'quad anvil' crimp tool for
MACHINED pins. They're entirely different breeds
of cat. I'd be cautious about mixing-matching
pins/wires/tools without some careful study
of the end product. The smallest hex on a -2
MIGHT properly close on a d-sub pin but I've not
investigated it.
I have used the -3 tool on hi-density pins and
it seemed to produce a good grip. I thought
I had cross sectioned the joint under the
microscope . . . but I don't find any notes or
photos on the experiment. Therefore, I can't
offer advice based on any solid information.
RCT-1 (PIDG style terminals)
http://www.bandc.biz/pidgstylecrimptool.aspx
RCT-2 (Coax Connectors - Hex dies)
http://www.bandc.biz/bnccoaxconnectorcrimptool.aspx
RCT-3 (Quad-Crimp for machined pins)
http://www.bandc.biz/d-submachinedpincrimptool.aspx
RCT-4 (Butt-cheeks crimp for open barrel formed sheet metal pins)
http://www.bandc.biz/openbarrelcrimptoolratcheting.aspx
which is an upgraded version of BCT-1 tool I used to offer
for open barrel crimps
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
This doesn't mean there are not other recipes
for success using these tools for other-than-offered
purposes. Just proceed with caution.
Bob . . .
|
I was hoping that the die for the coax center pin would do double duty for d-sub pins. Oh, well...if the -3 tool will do both std & hi-density d-subs, that does help somewhat.
And there's always solder.... 
Thanks,
Charlie
[quote][b]
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Float Flyr
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland
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| Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 6:51 am Post subject: tool multitasking |
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If you want to see what the off type crimper will do to a D sub din just try it... but get an extra pin first. I don’t think you will try again. When I trained we were told to try it. We even tried non-ratcheting crimpers and just about anything else you can imagine. What worked was the right crimper with the right size jaws for the right pin.
Do you guys use coloured wire or white printed wire and if you use the printed stuff where do you get it printed?
Noel
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Andres
Sent: January 22, 2011 12:58 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: tool multitasking
I'm cheap also, but I saved several thousand dollars over having this panel built for me. One of the panel builders qouted me $8K to build the panel and wire it with power only. That did not include the avionics interconnects. So I bought the Daniels crimpers with the proper positioners for about $200, and spent about 3 weeks doing it myself including having the panel CNC cut.
I believe to crimp the HD pins you need the Daniels crimper (or equivalent)
Tim Andres
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
To: aeroelectric list <aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sat, January 22, 2011 7:48:59 AM
Subject: tool multitasking
OK, I'm cheap.
Is there any chance that the B&C RCT-2 crimper will crimp regular &/or hi-density d-sub pins? If so, I can just buy the RCT-2 instead of both it and the RCT-3.
Will the RCT-3 crimp the hi-density d-sub pins, or is one of the +$100 tools needed for those?
Thanks,
Charlie01234567890
[quote][b]
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_________________
Noel Loveys
Kitfox III-A
Aerocet 1100 Floats |
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dee.whittington(at)gmail.
Guest
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| Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 8:37 am Post subject: tool multitasking |
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All,
On our Sportsman 2+2 we have been using a Dymo Rhino 3000 printer and use the Rhino printable heat shrink and labels. It does a smashing job of allowing us to put any text label on our wires which we do on each end. The printer prints on the flat heatshrink available in colors, so we can color code white wire and label in plain English or any sort of code we want. Not cheap but very professional. We use some basic wire colors too to generally delineate power/ground/signal wires.
Dee Whittington
At 09:48 AM 1/23/2011, you wrote:
| Quote: | Do you guys use coloured wire or white printed wire and if you use the printed stuff where do you get it printed?
Noel
|
DeWitt (Dee) Whittington
406 N Mulberry St
Richmond, VA 23220-3320
(804) 358-4333 phone and fax
SKYPE: hilltopkid
dee.whittington(at)gmail.com [quote][b]
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rlborger(at)mac.com
Guest
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| Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 9:22 am Post subject: tool multitasking |
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Y'all,
Same solution I was going to suggest. Works great.
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Tri-Gear, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S Prop
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=60232
http://www.biplaneforumgallery.com/index.php?cat=10046
Europa Flying!
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
On Jan 23, 2011, at 10:32, DeWitt Whittington wrote:
| Quote: | All,
On our Sportsman 2+2 we have been using a Dymo Rhino 3000 printer and use the Rhino printable heat shrink and labels. It does a smashing job of allowing us to put any text label on our wires which we do on each end. The printer prints on the flat heatshrink available in colors, so we can color code white wire and label in plain English or any sort of code we want. Not cheap but very professional. We use some basic wire colors too to generally delineate power/ground/signal wires.
Dee Whittington
At 09:48 AM 1/23/2011, you wrote:
| Quote: | Do you guys use coloured wire or white printed wire and if you use the printed stuff where do you get it printed?
Noel
|
DeWitt (Dee) Whittington
406 N Mulberry St
Richmond, VA 23220-3320
(804) 358-4333 phone and fax
SKYPE: hilltopkid
dee.whittington(at)gmail.com (dee.whittington(at)gmail.com) | Quote: |
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
|
|
| | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |
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Float Flyr
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland
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| Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:08 pm Post subject: tool multitasking |
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Great to hear.
Problem with coloured wires is of course getting a fool up between a red wire with a green trace and a red wire with a blue trace (colour blindness) and or the red wire with the yellow trace and the yellow wire with the red trace.
I like number codes... Eg. Charging circuits may be all marked 1- the next number in the code will be the piece in the run so if you have a firewall through put the second piece of wire to your regulator/rectifier could be 1-2. Then from the rectifier to the master switches could be 1-2-1. Makes things so easy to follow on a schematic as well as in the plane. The white colour allows you to see any heat problems.
Being a bit old school... Make that a lot old school... I’d like to see the inventor of nylon tie wraps severely flogged with a piece of his own tie wrap. I wish I had a penny for every time I gashed my hands or arms on that stuff. Wax string and Cora Seal is a lot neater but does take a bit more time to do properly.
Noel
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DeWitt Whittington
Sent: January 23, 2011 1:03 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: tool multitasking
All,
On our Sportsman 2+2 we have been using a Dymo Rhino 3000 printer and use the Rhino printable heat shrink and labels. It does a smashing job of allowing us to put any text label on our wires which we do on each end. The printer prints on the flat heatshrink available in colors, so we can color code white wire and label in plain English or any sort of code we want. Not cheap but very professional. We use some basic wire colors too to generally delineate power/ground/signal wires.
Dee Whittington
At 09:48 AM 1/23/2011, you wrote:
Do you guys use coloured wire or white printed wire and if you use the printed stuff where do you get it printed?
Noel
DeWitt (Dee) Whittington
406 N Mulberry St
Richmond, VA 23220-3320
(804) 358-4333 phone and fax
SKYPE: hilltopkid
dee.whittington(at)gmail.com | Quote: | | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |
01234567
[quote][b]
| | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |
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_________________
Noel Loveys
Kitfox III-A
Aerocet 1100 Floats |
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dee.whittington(at)gmail.
Guest
|
| Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:30 pm Post subject: tool multitasking |
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No, Noel,
We do not use colored wires with color traces. Only easy to distinguish solid colors and only a few of those. The detail we leave to the plain English or as desired coded printed heat shrink labels placed everywhere as needed.
Agree cord is the best, but our Ty-Wraps (we only use that brand by Thomas & Betts) we cut totally flush with a special pair of diagonal cutters easily available on the market. No sliced hands so far.
Dee
At 07:04 PM 1/23/2011, you wrote:
| Quote: | Great to hear.
Problem with coloured wires is of course getting a fowl up between a red wire with a green trace and a red wire with a blue trace (colour blindness) and or the red wire with the yellow trace and the yellow wire with the red trace.
I like number codes... Eg. Charging circuits may be all marked 1- the next number in the code will be the piece in the run so if you have a firewall through put the second piece of wire to your regulator/rectifier could be 1-2. Then from the rectifier to the master switches could be 1-2-1. Makes things so easy to follow on a schematic as well as in the plane. The white colour allows you to see any heat problems.
Being a bit old school... Make that a lot old school... I’d like to see the inventor of nylon tie wraps severely flogged with a piece of his own tie wrap. I wish I had a penny for every time I gashed my hands or arms on that stuff. Wax string and Cora Seal is a lot neater but does take a bit more time to do properly.
Noel
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [ mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of DeWitt Whittington
Sent: January 23, 2011 1:03 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: tool multitasking
All,
On our Sportsman 2+2 we have been using a Dymo Rhino 3000 printer and use the Rhino printable heat shrink and labels. It does a smashing job of allowing us to put any text label on our wires which we do on each end. The printer prints on the flat heatshrink available in colors, so we can color code white wire and label in plain English or any sort of code we want. Not cheap but very professional. We use some basic wire colors too to generally delineate power/ground/signal wires.
Dee Whittington
At 09:48 AM 1/23/2011, you wrote:
Do you guys use coloured wire or white printed wire and if you use the printed stuff where do you get it printed?
Noel
DeWitt (Dee) Whittington
406 N Mulberry St
Richmond, VA 23220-3320
(804) 358-4333 phone and fax
SKYPE: hilltopkid
dee.whittington(at)gmail.com
|
DeWitt (Dee) Whittington
406 N Mulberry St
Richmond, VA 23220-3320
(804) 358-4333 phone and fax
SKYPE: hilltopkid
dee.whittington(at)gmail.com [quote][b]
| | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |
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Float Flyr
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland
|
| Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 5:47 pm Post subject: tool multitasking |
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|
Any tie wraps can be made safe by simply sanding the sharp ends where the excess gets cut off. Too bad not many people take the seconds required to do that. You’ve been luckier than I have... and I have scars to prove it!
Noel
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DeWitt Whittington
Sent: January 23, 2011 8:56 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: tool multitasking
No, Noel,
We do not use colored wires with color traces. Only easy to distinguish solid colors and only a few of those. The detail we leave to the plain English or as desired coded printed heat shrink labels placed everywhere as needed.
Agree cord is the best, but our Ty-Wraps (we only use that brand by Thomas & Betts) we cut totally flush with a special pair of diagonal cutters easily available on the market. No sliced hands so far.
Dee
At 07:04 PM 1/23/2011, you wrote:
Great to hear.
Problem with coloured wires is of course getting a fowl up between a red wire with a green trace and a red wire with a blue trace (colour blindness) and or the red wire with the yellow trace and the yellow wire with the red trace.
I like number codes... Eg. Charging circuits may be all marked 1- the next number in the code will be the piece in the run so if you have a firewall through put the second piece of wire to your regulator/rectifier could be 1-2. Then from the rectifier to the master switches could be 1-2-1. Makes things so easy to follow on a schematic as well as in the plane. The white colour allows you to see any heat problems.
Being a bit old school... Make that a lot old school... I’d like to see the inventor of nylon tie wraps severely flogged with a piece of his own tie wrap. I wish I had a penny for every time I gashed my hands or arms on that stuff. Wax string and Cora Seal is a lot neater but does take a bit more time to do properly.
Noel
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [ mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of DeWitt Whittington
Sent: January 23, 2011 1:03 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: tool multitasking
All,
On our Sportsman 2+2 we have been using a Dymo Rhino 3000 printer and use the Rhino printable heat shrink and labels. It does a smashing job of allowing us to put any text label on our wires which we do on each end. The printer prints on the flat heatshrink available in colors, so we can color code white wire and label in plain English or any sort of code we want. Not cheap but very professional. We use some basic wire colors too to generally delineate power/ground/signal wires.
Dee Whittington
At 09:48 AM 1/23/2011, you wrote:
Do you guys use coloured wire or white printed wire and if you use the printed stuff where do you get it printed?
Noel
DeWitt (Dee) Whittington
406 N Mulberry St
Richmond, VA 23220-3320
(804) 358-4333 phone and fax
SKYPE: hilltopkid
dee.whittington(at)gmail.com
DeWitt (Dee) Whittington
406 N Mulberry St
Richmond, VA 23220-3320
(804) 358-4333 phone and fax
SKYPE: hilltopkid
dee.whittington(at)gmail.com 012345678901234567
[quote][b]
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_________________
Noel Loveys
Kitfox III-A
Aerocet 1100 Floats |
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest
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| Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 6:48 pm Post subject: tool multitasking |
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| Quote: | | . . . we cut totally flush with a special pair of diagonal cutters easily available on the market. No sliced hands so far. |
I suspect the "special" cutters are commonly referred to
as jewelers flush cutters. The come in a variety of
qualities and prices. The ones I've been using around
here for awhile are.
http://tinyurl.com/4nptpy5
These are not yer granpa's fence wire tool. Apply
these judiciously.
Bob . . . [quote][b]
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Float Flyr
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland
|
| Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:16 am Post subject: tool multitasking |
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|
Use the same cuts. But most of the other guys I know are using regular sidecuts and they are not too careful about trimming/sanding the ends of the tie wraps.
Noel
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: January 23, 2011 10:15 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: tool multitasking
| Quote: |
. . . we cut totally flush with a special pair of diagonal cutters easily available on the market. No sliced hands so far. |
I suspect the "special" cutters are commonly referred to
as jewelers flush cutters. The come in a variety of
qualities and prices. The ones I've been using around
here for awhile are.
http://tinyurl.com/4nptpy5
These are not yer granpa's fence wire tool. Apply
these judiciously.
Bob . . . | Quote: | | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |
01234567
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jonlaury
Joined: 06 Nov 2006
Posts: 336
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| Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 9:26 am Post subject: Re: tool multitasking |
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For wire marking, I tried a Brother lableler, but the tape is expensive and it wastes a lot and it's a bit large. Then I tried printing 8 pt labels on paper and cutting them out as I needed and slipped under clear heatshrink. But I always ended up needing a label at the hangar that I hadn't thought of at home.
I ended up hand-printing the lablel that I wanted on 1/8" masking tape (auto body shop supply) that just goes around awg 20 and slipping under heat shrink. That ended up being the cheapest, quickest, neatest and most effective. Solid color heat shrink for coding. Labels on both ends indicate origination, device served, leg, wire size.
My Franklin engine logs came from Poland, hand printed in a beautiful style, the machined parts of the engine had a similar hand-etched style. It reminded me that these engines were actually built by a person. I like that same look on my wiring and ditto for the poly-tape tied wire run bundles FWF.
John
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Tundra10
Joined: 14 Jun 2010
Posts: 102
Location: Scarborough, Ontario
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| Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 10:56 am Post subject: tool multitasking |
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The printer seems reasonable at $75.
However, 5 feet of heatshrink for $28 is quite expensive !
Has anyone found a more competitive source ?
I assume you cannot load standard heatshrink in the unit ?
Thanks,
Jeff Page
Dream Aircraft Tundra #10
| Quote: | On our Sportsman 2+2 we have been using a Dymo Rhino 3000 printer
and use the Rhino printable heat shrink and labels. It does a
smashing job of allowing us to put any text label on our wires which
we do on each end. The printer prints on the flat heatshrink
available in colors, so we can color code white wire and label in
plain English or any sort of code we want. Not cheap but very
professional. We use some basic wire colors too to generally
delineate power/ground/signal wires.
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