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Spar bolts tight

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graeme bird

Joined: 15 Jul 2010
Posts: 434

Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 9:33 am Post subject: Spar bolts tight

My paperwork is in for flight test approval but I find the spar bolts very hard to get in particularly now as I have trimmed the starboard one to length and no longer have a long feathered end to pull it in and also have put the spar strap on.

It seems to be a job pulling in the last mm and I wondered if anyone has used straps and a ratchet ? 

Also I find the stabilizers hard to get on and off, again its the last half inch or so - the pins seem tight and there is nothing much to push on.

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_________________
Graeme Bird
kit4 (Wagstaff) TBD
Kit3 G-CLXU (Gregory) mono 914 xs Woodcomp
Kit2 G-PATS - (kesterton) Mono Classic 912 warpdrive
Kit 1 G-UMPY - Mono Classic/XS 912S, Woodcomp G(@)gdbmk.co.uk

grahamsingleton(at)btinte
Guest

Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 9:46 am Post subject: Spar bolts tight

Graem

the T/P pins need to be exactly parallel with the tube, get a length of 1/4" bore tube and use it carefully to check alignment then bend them straight.

Graham



From: graeme bird <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>

To: europa-list(at)matronics.com

Sent: Saturday, 10 September, 2011 18:33:02

Subject: Spar bolts tight



--> Europa-List message posted by: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk (graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk)>



My paperwork is in for flight test approval but I find the spar bolts very hard to get in particularly now as I have trimmed the starboard one to length and no longer have a long feathered end to pull it in and also have put the spar strap on.

It seems to be a job pulling in the last mm and I wondered if anyone has used straps and a ratchet ? 

Also I find the stabilizers hard to get on and off, again its the last half inch or so - the pins seem tight and there is nothing much to push on.



--------

Graeme Bird

G-UMPY

Mono Classic/XS FWFD 912ULS/Warp drive FP

Build nearing completion





Read this topic online here:



http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351902#351========================http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Eurp;  -->

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stephen vestuti

Joined: 05 Jul 2011
Posts: 62
Location: Wales, UK

Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 12:08 pm Post subject: Re: Spar bolts tight

Hi Grahame,



Try pulling the Stb. "Allen" Pin to only go through the first spar,

then push  the Port Spar Pin, when it's fully home, repush the Stb. Allen Pin,

Try that sequence and see how you get on,

Steve    #630

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john.heykoop(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 2:29 pm Post subject: Spar bolts tight

Graeme



I rig my aircraft single handed, and find that the only way I can get the spar pins in is to initially use a tapered pin on the starboard side. Then, once the port pin is fully home I put a support under the starboard wing, pull out the tapered starboard pin and replace it with the Allen pin. Works every time.



John Heykoop

XS Mono G-JHKP



On 10 Sep 2011, at 18:33, "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 My paperwork is in for flight test approval but I find the spar bolts very hard to get in particularly now as I have trimmed the starboard one to length and no longer have a long feathered end to pull it in and also have put the spar strap on.

 It seems to be a job pulling in the last mm and I wondered if anyone has used straps and a ratchet ? 

 Also I find the stabilizers hard to get on and off, again its the last half inch or so - the pins seem tight and there is nothing much to push on.

 

 --------

 Graeme Bird

 G-UMPY

 Mono Classic/XS FWFD 912ULS/Warp drive FP

 Build nearing completion

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=351902#351902

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budyerly(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 8:24 pm Post subject: Spar bolts tight

<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]-->  Graem,

 Not to butt in, but, after a long build it is not uncommon that a once easy  to rig aircraft seems a bit sticky.

 Graham has hit the nail on the head.  Everything, pins and bushes need  to be aligned.

 After a long build process and painting, interior work etc., you need  to work very hard to clean and prep everything.  It is amazing to me  that all that finish work on the outside seems to allow the plane to develop a  sag sometimes changing alignment.  But I submit it is only time unrigged  that is the cause.  Like leaving the doors open for a year then find  they don't close.  Duh fiberglass moves.  

  

 First clean and lube all rigging parts.

 Wings,

 Clean the root pins flawlessly clean and free from dirt, corrosion, glue  etc. Check for burrs, polish with a buffing wheel and lube them well.  A  small amount of excess glue from the root layups can ruin your day.

  

 Wing pins, clean and buff.  Note the pip pin is a very close tolerance  (0.499 is what mine measured whereas the Allen head pin is about 0.495 or so)  and if you rig with the pip pin first, the Allen will be tough.   Any corrosion or goo in the bushes will make alignment miserably tight.

  

 Ensure the aileron quick disconnects aren’t too tight.

  

 Clean your sockets out and clean your bushings in the wing.

  

 Rig one wing at a time and note that a bit of wing tip movement can bind  the pin easily or loosen it.  I have wing walkers or a good stable wing  rigging platform which sets the wing precisely at the right angle so the  wing bushes are aligned and the pins slide in effortlessly.  Check the  port wing first, then rig the other wing.

  

 Each wing should slide in with a clear "thunk" sound.  That is the  sound of the spar hitting on one or both of the sockets and the spar cap.

  

 Once the wings are in, then ascertain how the pins fit.  Have an  assistant lift one wing until the pin moves easily around.

  

 Normally a single pin will go in when rigging.  If you are still  having problems simply look through the holes and use a probe to determine where  the misalignment is.  Front spar, aft spar etc.  If it is out of  alignment on the side of the bush, the wings aren't in far enough.  If top  or bottom the wings are not in at the right dihedral angle.

  

 As a final last straw.  Heat the pin until it is just about 250  degrees F then push it in and let it set.  The heat will transfer to the  bushes and align it.  I do have a 1/2 inch reamer that I have used to clean  up the inside of the bushes but red scotchbrite is normally all that is  necessary.

  

 I have found the spar strap to be of aid in rigging.

 Technique:

 I personally set the wings up horizontal using my wing pins.  I do not  clamp the wing spars, I just use a bit of a clap on the end of the  spar to keep the bushes in contact with each other but do not pull the  center of the spar together.  If you choose to use the bolts, the bolts are  a smaller diameter than the wing pip pin so the alignment will be off a tiny  bit.  Use a generous amount of parcel tape and use a stout piece  of card stock (1mm or so) to make the bow on the spar top.  I also peel ply  the the tapes but then wrap them in place with parcel tape until cured as  gravity works 24/7.  By keeping the wing horizontal, the bottom of the  strap tends to be nicer looking and a slightly looser fit which aids in  rigging.

  

 Stabs.

 Clean and buff your tubes.  Then lube them.

 Check that the pins on the TP12s didn't get bent during painting.  I  use a piece of wood held against the tube and check the pin is perfectly  aligned with it.  I use a 1/4 inch ID tube to carefully bend the tube into  place.  

 Clean the TP13s well, as filler likes to get in there.

  

 To clean out the TPs, I use a drill extension and install a 1.5 inch 120  grit flap wheel as a cleaner for the TP5 and 6 bearings.

 I then put a piece of paper towel over the end and tape it up.  It  looks like a gun cleaner when done.  I lube it and I use it as a gun tube  swabber.  Then the stabs slide on beautifully.  Great for annual  maintenance or pre-rigging cleanup.

 Getting the trim bar disconnected first before full pull to remove the stab  makes it a bit easier on everything also.

  

 Personal note on stab installation:

 I have found that holding the stab vertical balanced on the leading edge  with one hand, facing the upper side of the stab and holding the root section  with the other allows an installation free of torque or bending on the TP5  bearing, possibly damaging or cracking it loose.  Wiggle it on by  rotating the root section while carefully aligning the stab with the  tube and sliding it on until the inner TP6 is just contacted.  Move to  the stab tip then rotate the stab to the near 12 to 13 degrees nose down  from the horizontal to get the TP13s aligned and push part way on, insert the  trim tube and push the stab home. 

  

 With all respect to Mod 73 and those clamping their stab tubes, if your  TP14 pins are lose, don't fly, do the larger pin mod and use loctite  to remove any play at the trailing edge of the stab.  Any play will  result in eventual flutter which leads to bad things like death so don't accept  any, fix it.  

  

 Regards,

 Bud

  

  

  

 [quote]   ---

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graeme bird

Joined: 15 Jul 2010
Posts: 434

Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 1:38 pm Post subject: Re: Spar bolts tight

thanks so much for the replies, very useful

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Bill & Sue

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 48
Location: Malvern, Worcs. UK (Defford, Croft Farm)

Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 1:12 am Post subject: Re: Spar bolts tight

Graeme,



I endorse all the more sophisticated responses you have received, but when I was assembling my wings I was concerned that the pins seemed to have become unnecessarily stiff, however simply greasing the pins made a quite surprising difference...



Regards

Bill

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