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nuckollsr
Joined: 24 Mar 2009 Posts: 95 Location: Medicine Lodge, KS
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Posted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 7:30 pm Post subject: Re: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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[/quote] Did you mean 14 *volts*? How can you tell that it would support that for a half a second brownout?[/quote]
The dc-dc converter in consideration is a step-up device with an input range of 3-32 volts, an output range of 5-35 volts. The only constraints on picking an operating point is to have the output set to always be greater than the input . . . which can in this case be as much as 15 volts. So some comfortable head-room above 15 is in order. The higher the selection, the lower the current demanded by the Dynon's switchmode power supply. 17 would probably work too. Here's some input/output combinations the supplier says this critter will handle.
Test comparison sample reference:
Input 3V Output 12V 0.4A 4.8W
Input 5V Output 12V 0.8A 9.6W
Input 7.4V Output 12V 1.5A 18W
Input 12V Output 15V 2A 30W
Input 12V Output 16V 2A 32W
Input 12V Output 18V 1.6A 28.8W
Input 12V Output 19V 1.5A 28.5W
Input 12V Output 24V 1 A 24W
Our 'target low input' is on the order of 7 v so we're asking the little feller to put out 14 watts max with 7v in and some output with headroom above 15volts . . . 19 seemed like a handy number.
Actually if wired so the converter gets input power only with the starter button pushed, we can eliminate the possibility of operation with the alternator running. So adjusting for say 15 volts output would suffice for the fully charged, unloaded battery case . . . with all bases covered for battery voltage profile during cranking . . . especially during starter inrush.
Good question.
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user9253
Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1938 Location: Riley TWP Michigan
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Posted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 4:09 am Post subject: Re: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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Quote: | AA cells are not well suited to 1+ amp discharge situations but as you've discovered, D-cells took the hit nicely. A d-cell array is certainly cost attractive but gives you another battery to maintain. |
Actually my successful experiment used 4 AA batteries. Two D batteries did not keep the D-180 from rebooting, nor did 3 AA. I did not try 3 or 4 D batteries, mainly because I did not have battery holder.
A capacitor or DC-DC booster will offer a more elegant solution. Or perhaps a combination of DC booster supplying a higher voltage to a capacitor. Mouser sells a 25volts 150000uF part number 647-LNR1E154MSE at a reasonable cost. Joe
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rickofudall

Joined: 19 Sep 2009 Posts: 1392 Location: Udall, KS, USA
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Posted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 7:05 am Post subject: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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Thanks Bob, I learned a little more.I have a day of machining parts, about which I know a fair amount, followed by removing the fuel filter, which is in the fuel tank and about which I know next to nothing, from my wife's car. Should things go badly with the car I can at least reflect on the knowledge that I have learned a little about the mysteries of electron herding so I can probably learn about in tank fuel filters and possibly about replacing an in tank fuel pump, too. I feel better already.
Rick
do not archive
On Fri, Aug 16, 2013 at 10:30 PM, nuckollsr <bob.nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com (bob.nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
Did you mean 14 *volts*? How can you tell that it would support that for a half a second brownout?[/quote]
The dc-dc converter in consideration is a step-up device with an input range of 3-32 volts, an output range of 5-35 volts. The only constraints on picking an operating point is to have the output set to always be greater than the input . . . which can in this case be as much as 15 volts. So some comfortable head-room above 15 is in order. The higher the selection, the lower the current demanded by the Dynon's switchmode power supply. 17 would probably work too. Here's some input/output combinations the supplier says this critter will handle.
Test comparison sample reference:
Input 3V Output 12V 0.4A 4.8W
Input 5V Output 12V 0.8A 9.6W
Input 7.4V Output 12V 1.5A 18W
Input 12V Output 15V 2A 30W
Input 12V Output 16V 2A 32W
Input 12V Output 18V 1.6A 28.8W
Input 12V Output 19V 1.5A 28.5W
Input 12V Output 24V 1 A 24W
Our 'target low input' is on the order of 7 v so we're asking the little feller to put out 14 watts max with 7v in and some output with headroom above 15volts . . . 19 seemed like a handy number.
Actually if wired so the converter gets input power only with the starter button pushed, we can eliminate the possibility of operation with the alternator running. So adjusting for say 15 volts output would suffice for the fully charged, unloaded battery case . . . with all bases covered for battery voltage profile during cranking . . . especially during starter inrush.
Good question.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406904#406904
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nuckollsr
Joined: 24 Mar 2009 Posts: 95 Location: Medicine Lodge, KS
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Posted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 9:21 am Post subject: Re: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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Quote: | Actually my successful experiment used 4 AA batteries. Two D batteries did not keep the D-180 from rebooting, nor did 3 AA. I did not try 3 or 4 D batteries, mainly because I did not have battery holder.
A capacitor or DC-DC booster will offer a more elegant solution. Or perhaps a combination of DC booster supplying a higher voltage to a capacitor. Mouser sells a 25volts 150000uF part number 647-LNR1E154MSE at a reasonable cost. Joe |
Yeah, a smaller capacitor charged to a higher voltage would probably do it too. The AA experiment obviously worked but even though their 'sag' under load did not torpedo the experiment, it's going to affect service life. Consider a 4xD as a soldered up pak with flying leads. I'm pretty sure this would give you a good service life . . . probably a couple of years as long as your airplane is not stored in a closed hangar under an Arizona sun.
The dc to dc converter we looked at first set for a 12v output and driven from the downstream side of your starter button seems pretty elegant.
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user9253
Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1938 Location: Riley TWP Michigan
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Posted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 5:42 pm Post subject: Re: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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Bob,
Thanks for the advice.
I will use 4 AA batteries temporarily and order a DC-DC booster for a long term solution. Do you think that the DC-DC converter will come alive and boost the voltage before the starter contactor energizes the starter motor?
Electronics should be faster than a mechanical device.
Thanks, Joe
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peter(at)sportingaero.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 11:35 pm Post subject: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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Talking of dc-dc converters, this is probably more than many might want
to spend, but TCW produces some well thought out components.
http://www.tcwtech.com/IPS-12v.htm
Peter
On 17/08/2013 18:21, nuckollsr wrote:
Quote: |
> Actually my successful experiment used 4 AA batteries. Two D batteries did not keep the D-180 from rebooting, nor did 3 AA. I did not try 3 or 4 D batteries, mainly because I did not have battery holder.
> A capacitor or DC-DC booster will offer a more elegant solution. Or perhaps a combination of DC booster supplying a higher voltage to a capacitor. Mouser sells a 25volts 150000uF part number 647-LNR1E154MSE at a reasonable cost. Joe
Yeah, a smaller capacitor charged to a higher voltage would probably do it too. The AA experiment obviously worked but even though their 'sag' under load did not torpedo the experiment, it's going to affect service life. Consider a 4xD as a soldered up pak with flying leads. I'm pretty sure this would give you a good service life . . . probably a couple of years as long as your airplane is not stored in a closed hangar under an Arizona sun.
The dc to dc converter we looked at first set for a 12v output and driven from the downstream side of your starter button seems pretty elegant.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406922#406922
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uuccio(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 11:54 pm Post subject: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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On Aug 17, 2013, at 5:30, "nuckollsr" <bob.nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> wrote:
Did you mean 14 *volts*? How can you tell that it would support that for a half a second brownout?[/quote]
[...]
Our 'target low input' is on the order of 7 v so we're asking the little feller to put out 14 watts max with 7v in and some output with headroom above 15volts . . . 19 seemed like a handy number.
[...]
Thanks for the explanation Bob!
[/quote]
Do not archive
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 6:49 pm Post subject: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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At 08:42 PM 8/17/2013, you wrote:
Quote: |
Bob,
Thanks for the advice.
I will use 4 AA batteries temporarily and order a DC-DC booster for
a long term solution. Do you think that the DC-DC converter will
come alive and boost the voltage before the starter contactor
energizes the starter motor?
Electronics should be faster than a mechanical device.
|
Yes, the push button simultaneously applies
power to the starter contactor and input to
the dc-dc converter. The contactor has a pull-in
delay on hte order of 5-10 milliseconds . . .
plenty of time for the dc-dc converter to
wake up.
Bob . . .
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user9253
Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1938 Location: Riley TWP Michigan
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Posted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 2:34 pm Post subject: Re: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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Quote: | The contactor has a pull-in
delay on hte order of 5-10 milliseconds . . .
plenty of time for the dc-dc converter to
wake up.
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Thanks Bob
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Eric M. Jones

Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 565 Location: Massachusetts
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Posted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 4:36 pm Post subject: Re: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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--Edited to add Bob's correction to the schematic:
Most supercap designs seem targeted to electric vehicles or locomotives. Here is one to keep the Dynon from rebooting during starting. Bob N knows a hundred times more than I do about the Dynon, but this design should work, or at the very least provide a starting place for one that will by adding more caps. This design is for 12V, but a higher voltage design is easy, too.
The advantage of this design is that it is about the size of a pack of chewing gum and cost about $30. It is easy to build on a perf-board. Add your own features as you like.
How it works: Ordinarily the power is fed through the DS1 to the Dynon Power Input. The DS2 supplies power to charge the supercaps through current limiter R1. Since they are in series, the stack is actually only 250,000 uF X 20V max. R2-5 are voltage equilizers and draw 30 mA. R1 dissipates 25W initially when charging the supercaps.
When the bus slumps below the charge voltage of the supercaps, current flows
through DS3 to supply the required power, then gets recharged as above.
BDZ is a bidirectional Zener to keep the Schottkys healthy, but it is optional. You might want a 3A solid state fuse in the input.
Good luck. Note that this design is experimental and has not been tested.
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Description: |
Rev A corrected Supercap to lower ESR |
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Filename: |
supercap revA.pdf |
Filesize: |
76.95 KB |
Downloaded: |
399 Time(s) |
_________________ Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge, MA 01550
(508) 764-2072
emjones(at)charter.net
Last edited by Eric M. Jones on Fri Aug 23, 2013 6:01 am; edited 1 time in total |
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user9253
Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1938 Location: Riley TWP Michigan
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Posted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 6:39 pm Post subject: Re: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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Thanks Eric. I have already ordered the DC to DC booster from eBay (China). If that does not work out, I will build your circuit.
Since the Dynon normally is powered through a separate terminal, I believe that DS-1 can be eliminated and DS-3 can be shorted. Since this circuit will only be needed for less than a second during engine start, does R1 need to have such a high wattage rating?
Joe
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Eric M. Jones

Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 565 Location: Massachusetts
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Posted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 1:07 pm Post subject: Re: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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Quote: | Since the Dynon normally is powered through a separate terminal, I believe that DS-1 can be eliminated and DS-3 can be shorted. Since this circuit will only be needed for less than a second during engine start, does R1 need to have such a high wattage rating?
Joe |
Joe, I think DS1 and 3 are needed. Bob?
Does R1 need to be 35W? This is a TO-220 resistor, so it's pretty small. When the circuit is first charged (or after sitting) the capacitor current is a dead short. So no, 35W is excessive, but it has to be high wattage. 1.4A x 1.4A x 10=20W. You might get by with a lot smaller part.
Make sure you note that Bob N. pointed out that the Supercaps needed to be pulse rated, so I've changed them.
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user9253
Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1938 Location: Riley TWP Michigan
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Posted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 2:03 pm Post subject: Re: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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Thanks Eric
This circuit might have to be powered on when ever the D-180 is on (instead of through the start swtch) in order to give the capacitors time to charge. According to an online time constant calculator, it could take up to 2.5 seconds.
http://easycalculation.com/engineering/electrical/capacitor-energy-rc-time-constant.php
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nuckollsr
Joined: 24 Mar 2009 Posts: 95 Location: Medicine Lodge, KS
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Posted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 7:04 am Post subject: Re: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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This has been an interesting thread from the IT perspective . . . not all posts to the thread showed up in my mailbox but did appear in the matronics browser app for list access. I didn't get Eric's corrected drawing link . . .
In this particular discussion for supplying power t the Dynon's external backup input pin, we're told that this pin is loaded ONLY IF adequate power is not available from the normal power input pin -OR- an internal battery. In this case, DS1 could be eliminated (open) and DS3 replaced with a short.
If this circuit were used to buffer the one and only power input pin to
a brownout sensitive appliance, then a path for steady state power at normal operating currents is needed . . . you couldn't power the device continuously through the DS2/R1 pathway.
Many power resistors have 'pulsed' current ratings that can be quite large compared to the steady state dissipation for the device . . . but it's highly dependent upon THERMAL connection between the resistive element, thermal mass and ambient. I've studied some wire-wound resistors that were pretty disappointing for surge rating . . . others that were happily capable of considerable short-term abuse. You have to study the data sheets for the specific products. Generally speaking, resistors with flat surfaces that bolt to a chassis (thermal mass) will have pretty good pulse ratings . . . wire leaded devices that hang out in the breeze not so good.
The data sheet for these devices
http://tinyurl.com/msjo2va
. . . says you can hit them with 2x rated power for 5 seconds so this resistor would probably be fine as a 20W. At the same time, since we're not intending that this circuit charge rapidly in response to a starter-push button, the charging resistance could probably be raised by a factor of 2 without affecting circuit performance while reducing dissipated power by 75% in increasing capacitor charging time. Since the design goal being considered is to support a piece of equipment that has already been ON long enough to boot up and offer data, then the increase in time to charge the brown-out support is not significant.
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user9253
Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1938 Location: Riley TWP Michigan
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Posted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 4:31 pm Post subject: Re: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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It turns out that it really is a "Failed brownout battery experiment". After flying for several hours and starting the engine several times, there no longer is any brownout protection because (I assume) the 4 AA batteries have run down. I checked the batteries (no load) with a voltmeter: 1.4 volts each. I removed the AA batteries from the airplane so they will not cause any problems. I will await delivery of the DC-DC voltage booster that I ordered from eBay.
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Eric M. Jones

Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 565 Location: Massachusetts
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Posted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 4:37 pm Post subject: Re: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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I just placed a Digikey order for the parts and will build a prototype. Stay tuned.
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user9253
Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1938 Location: Riley TWP Michigan
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Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 5:14 pm Post subject: Re: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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Failed again.
The DC to DC voltage booster arrived from China. I connected it to the battery bus through an inline fuse and an on-off switch. The output of the voltage booster is connected to Dynon D-180 pin 15, the external backup power input. When the primary power to the D-180 pin 1 was shut off, the D-180 stayed on for a few seconds, then rebooted, shut off and rebooted, shut off and rebooted, over and over. The output of the DC to DC booster is set at 13 VDC. I then measured the voltage with the digital meter set to the AC range. It measured 28 volts AC. The D-180 must not like that. I tried connecting a 22,000 microfarad capacitor to the output of the DC to DC booster, but that did not help. So I removed the voltage booster and gave up on that idea.
Joe
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Eric M. Jones

Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 565 Location: Massachusetts
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Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 4:40 am Post subject: Re: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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Joe,
If you want, I'll send you my prototype DeSlumpifier for testing, since it is just sitting on my desk gathering cat hair.
Contact me at Perihelion at charter dot net.
Eric
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 6:59 am Post subject: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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At 07:40 AM 9/25/2013, you wrote:
Quote: |
Joe,
If you want, I'll send you my prototype DeSlumpifier for testing,
since it is just sitting on my desk gathering cat hair.
Contact me at Perihelion at charter dot net.
|
Joe, it would be an excellent experiment to put
Eric's hardware to the test in real hardware.
In the mean time, send me the booster you
bought and let me do some tests on it as well.
There should be NO significant AC component on
its output.
Bob . . .
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:40 am Post subject: Failed brownout battery experiment |
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At 08:14 PM 9/24/2013, you wrote:
Quote: |
Failed again.
The DC to DC voltage booster arrived from China. I connected it to
the battery bus through an inline fuse and an on-off switch. The
output of the voltage booster is connected to Dynon D-180 pin 15,
the external backup power input. When the primary power to the
D-180 pin 1 was shut off, the D-180 stayed on for a few seconds,
then rebooted, shut off and rebooted, shut off and rebooted, over
and over. The output of the DC to DC booster is set at 13 VDC. I
then measured the voltage with the digital meter set to the AC
range. It measured 28 volts AC. The D-180 must not like that. I
tried connecting a 22,000 microfarad capacitor to the output of the
DC to DC booster, but that did not help. So I removed the voltage
booster and gave up on that idea.
Joe
--------
Joe Gores
|
Which booster did you order?
Bob . . .
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