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Airflow Performance Purge Valve Fitted to RV-10
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rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 12:13 pm Post subject: Airflow Performance Purge Valve Fitted to RV-10

Thanks to you all, what a mine of information you are. Just pure gold.



Warm regards



Patrick

On 13 May 2014, at 0:28, Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com (Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com)> wrote:

[quote]                   I don't have the Airflow product and       don't have a purge valve.  I do have a cable supplier       recommendation.

       

       California Push-Pull - Chico CA http://www.push-pull.com/

       I ordered replacement cables for the Van's supplied cables       (quadrant version).  The Van's cables were all about an inch       shorter than optimal for my plane.  After 200 hours or so, each of       the 3 cables had started to chafe or melt in various places.

       

       I ordered Cablecraft replacements with the option of higher temp       materials.  I ordered three custom lengths - the 176-VTT-2-72 (72       inch) was $68.42.  The shorter ones were less.  Construction       exactly matched Vans supplied cables but with higher temp       plastics.

       

       Custom fabrication and shipment were apparently same day.  Vernier       and lock fittings seem to be options.  Don't attempt to order from       Web site, just call.  They know cables but don't necessarily talk       aircraft.

       

       If I were ordering any cables, this is where I'm going for price,       service, and quality.  I love ACS.

       

       On 5/11/2014 7:50 AM, Patrick Pulis wrote:

     

      	  Quote: 	
		                Are there any builders out there who have fitted the Airflow         Performance purge valve to their RV-10, who could please         indicate:

       

       

       1.  the approximate length of the cable used;

       

       

       2.  the supplier of the cable; and

       

       

       3.  if they used a cable with some form of locking mechanism         on the cable to prevent actuation of the purge valve in flight,         such as the A-750 VERNIER CONTROL cable sold by Aircraft           Spruce: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/a750.php

       

       

       

     

	
   

[b]

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Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Fri May 16, 2014 1:35 pm Post subject: Airflow Performance Purge Valve Fitted to RV-10

Okay, I'll try that.



My hot starts do result in some rough running for up to about 30 seconds 

or so.  If leaving the boost pump off eliminates some of that. I'll change.



Thanks!



On 5/12/2014 10:50 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 You would get similar results, but smoother start if you left the 

 boost pump off.

 The mixture in the cylinder during a hot start is more often rich than 

 not, because of fuel being boiled out of line from flow divider to 

 nozzle.

 The mechanical pump brings up the system fuel pressure within a couple 

 revolutions. If you simply shut down with throttle at 1000 rpm, and 

 leave it alone, it will be just right for the subsequent hot start.

 Just my experience flying a Bendix fuel injected Mooney in AZ for over 

 15 yrs.



 On 5/12/2014 7:41 AM, Bill Watson wrote:

> On 5/11/2014 2:16 PM, JimVillani wrote:

>>

>> Don,

>>

>> I am having a hell of a time starting my IO540 on a Hot Start, no 

>> problem when it is cold.

>>

>> What is your secret?

>>

>> Please advise..

>>

>>

> I'm coming up on 500 hours with a stock Vans-sourced engine. Here's 

> my cold and hot start procedure.  Works without fail unless I have a 

> brain fart and do something else (it happens).

>

> Cold Start: Crack the throttle (1/4" on quadrant), boost pump on, 

> open mixture for 5 seconds (or more) and close mixture. Crank until 

> it fires and smoothly open mixture.  If it doesn't fire after 1 or 2 

> prop turns, stop cranking, open mixture for a couple more seconds, 

> close and crank.  Can't remember having to ever repeat that again.  

> (Rather than the 5 seconds, watching the fuel flow meter while the 

> mixture is open is more effective.  Just open until the fuel flow 

> goes up and then stabilizes.  Then close and start.  No 2nd tries 

> required when following this method).

>

> Hot Start: Crack throttle, boost pump on, crank.  Can takes 3 or 4 

> turns until it starts to fire, roughly.  Smoothly open mixture.

>

> All movements are smooth.  I only open mixture to the position 

> slightly richer than I use for taxi, then once started, I lean it to 

> my normal taxi setting (and LOP setting).

>

> If the throttle isn't cracked, neither method results in a start. I 

> don't touch throttle until it starts, then I simply try to keep it 

> around 1000rpms

>

> I do a fair number of hot starts - landing at home and filling up 

> before taxi to hangar (definite hot start).  Or, taxi to fill-up 

> before taking off (not sure that qualifies but I use the hot start 

> procedure).  My home base is in Durham NC, so the ambient temps can 

> be sky high.

>

> I'm not sure exactly who gave me these instructions.  Might have been 

> in the Van's doc but whatever... I've never been able to figure out 

> what the big deal is with hot starts.  This is my first fuel injected 

> engine.

>

> Bill

> *

> *



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rv10flyer

Joined: 25 Aug 2009
Posts: 364

Posted: Sat May 17, 2014 7:54 pm Post subject: Re: Airflow Performance Purge Valve Fitted to RV-10

[quote="Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com"]On 5/11/2014 2:16 PM, JimVillani wrote:

     

      	  Quote: 	
		                       v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} <endif>         <endif>   <endif>                

Don,         

I             am having a hell of a time starting my IO540 on a Hot Start,             no problem when it is cold.         

What             is your secret?         

Please             advise..         

          

       

     	
     I'm coming up on 500 hours with a stock Vans-sourced engine.  Here's     my cold and hot start procedure.  Works without fail unless I have a     brain fart and do something else (it happens).

     

     Cold Start: Crack the throttle (1/4" on quadrant), boost pump on,     open mixture for 5 seconds (or more) and close mixture.  Crank until     it fires and smoothly open mixture.  If it doesn't fire after 1 or 2     prop turns, stop cranking, open mixture for a couple more seconds,     close and crank.  Can't remember having to ever repeat that again.      (Rather than the 5 seconds, watching the fuel flow meter while the     mixture is open is more effective.  Just open until the fuel flow     goes up and then stabilizes.  Then close and start.  No 2nd tries     required when following this method).

     

     Hot Start: Crack throttle, boost pump on, crank.  Can takes 3 or 4     turns until it starts to fire, roughly.  Smoothly open mixture.

     

     All movements are smooth.  I only open mixture to the position     slightly richer than I use for taxi, then once started, I lean it to     my normal taxi setting (and LOP setting).

     

     If the throttle isn't cracked, neither method results in a start.  I     don't touch throttle until it starts, then I simply try to keep it     around 1000rpms

     

     I do a fair number of hot starts - landing at home and filling up     before taxi to hangar (definite hot start).  Or, taxi to fill-up     before taking off (not sure that qualifies but I use the hot start     procedure).  My home base is in Durham NC, so the ambient temps can     be sky high.

     

     I'm not sure exactly who gave me these instructions.  Might have     been in the Van's doc but whatever... I've never been able to figure     out what the big deal is with hot starts.  This is my first fuel     injected engine.

     

     Bill

       	  Quote: 	
		  [b] 	




Works for me too. Simple.

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_________________
Wayne G.

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