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		Steve Kelly
 
 
  Joined: 08 Jul 2016 Posts: 18
 
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				 Posted: Wed Mar 13, 2019 7:00 am    Post subject: Starters | 
				     | 
			 
			
				
  | 
			 
			
				Can someone with more knowledge than me on the subject, tell me the difference between a series wound motor and a PM motor.  Also, does the series wound have more torque.  Is it more durable. 
   I have a Skytech PM on my O-320 thats getting a little sluggish on the initial turn of the prop.  While I'm aware that there may be other causes, confidence that my engine will start reliably is important.
   I have heard good things about B&Cs starters.  While they're more expensive, I guess you get what you pay for.
 Steve
 
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		nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
 
 
 
 
 
  | 
		
			
				 Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 4:20 am    Post subject: Starters | 
				     | 
			 
			
				
  | 
			 
			
				At 10:00 AM 3/13/2019, you wrote:
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Kelly" <amsk22(at)gmail.com>
 
  Can someone with more knowledge than me on the subject, tell me the difference
  between a series wound motor and a PM motor. | 	  
    That's a question with a really big answer.
    It fills a couple of volumes. It all depends
    on the application. Series wound motors for
    engine cranking are falling in popularity
    for a host of interleaved trade-offs. Strong
    influences on the shift to PM motors include
    falling costs of rare earth magnets compared
    to higher manufacturing costs for wound fields.
    Wound field motors seem to find favor with
    OEMs for diesel engines . . . a wound field
    motor has a flatter speed torque curve
    than PM motors under heavy load. They
    generally outperform PM starters under
    adverse conditions (cold, soggy battery,
    high resistance in cranking loop).
 
  [img]cid:.0[/img]
    The downside of series wound motors include
    poor load-speed regulation; an unloaded
    PM motor has a limit on unloaded RPM.
    A series wound motor's unloaded speed
    is limited only by friction in the motor's
    construction. Some designs are at risk
    for self destruction if operated no-load.
 
    There are a dozen trade-offs for deciding
    which configuration to adopt for any given
    application. Neither configuration is
    'superior' to the other over the full
    spectrum of operating characteristics.
 
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  |   Also, does the series wound have more torque. | 	  
    Not 'more' but 'flatter' speed-torque
    characteristics under heavy load . . .
 
  
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  |  Is it more durable | 	  
    Not necessarily. Durability has more to
    do with design details and manufacturing
    quality than with choice of motors.
 
   	  | Quote: | 	 		   
    I have a Skytech PM on my O-320 thats getting a
  little sluggish on the initial turn of the prop.
  While I'm aware that there may be other causes,
  confidence that my engine will start reliably is important. | 	  
    Motor condition is but one of several reasons
    for sluggish performance. The weakest link
    in cranking chain is battery condition.
    Just for grins, jumper your car battery
    to the ship's battery and see how the engine
    cranks. If there is marked improvement,
    consider load/capacity checking your battery.
 
    A least likely reason for diminished
    performance is an increased voltage
    drop in cranking power loop.
 
  [img]cid:.1[/img]
 
    It's expected that voltage available at the starter
    motor is lower than battery voltage. Just how much
    lower has an effect on cranking speed. I'd carefully
    check out the cranking power loop, ESPECIALLY the
    battery, before swapping out the starter.
 
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  |   I have heard good things about B&Cs starters.  While they're more expensive, I guess you get what you pay for. | 	  
 
    There were a number of discussions about the
    differences for B&C versus other players
    circa 1996. Here's one thread
 
   https://tinyurl.com/y38w4ksz
 
    In 23 years since, the various players
    have had ample opportunity to secure their
    position in the market based on perceived
    value and demonstrated track record. Further,
    I'm certain that many of the points cited
    in the thread are not longer valid . . .
    companies have changed hands and
    sales volumes have promoted better
    manufacturing techniques.
 
    I have no recent knowledge of player
    performance in today's starter market.
    But I can share that Robinson Helicopter
    was quite pleased with the performance
    and weight advantages of the B&C
    starters. They would swap B&C starters
    onto brand new engines fitted with
    factory supplied starters.
 
    B&C would receive boxes of Robinson
    starters pulled off engines taken
    down for overhaul and returned for reman. No
    matter how beat up and dirty the starters
    were on the outside, the wearing parts
    inside looked like they could go another
    2,000 hours on the airplane.
 
    I have no foundation to assert that
    the major players do not offer good
    value . . . but yes, in a free-market
    competition for customers, you generally
    do get what you pay for.
    
 
    
 
  
    Bob . . .
 
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		Steve Kelly
 
 
  Joined: 08 Jul 2016 Posts: 18
 
  | 
		
			
				 Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 9:21 am    Post subject: Starters | 
				     | 
			 
			
				
  | 
			 
			
				Bob,  Thank you for the reply.  I will try to get out to the hanger early next week and check the voltage readings.  The battery is a PC680 at three months old.   Do you have a method you would suggest to do a load/capacity check on it.Steve
 On Fri, Mar 15, 2019 at 8:27 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		    At 10:00 AM 3/13/2019, you wrote:
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Kelly" <amsk22(at)gmail.com (amsk22(at)gmail.com)>
 
  Can someone with more knowledge than me on the subject, tell me the difference
  between a series wound motor and a PM motor. | 	  
    That's a question with a really big answer.
    It fills a couple of volumes. It all depends
    on the application. Series wound motors for
    engine cranking are falling in popularity
    for a host of interleaved trade-offs. Strong
    influences on the shift to PM motors include
    falling costs of rare earth magnets compared
    to higher manufacturing costs for wound fields.
    Wound field motors seem to find favor with
    OEMs for diesel engines . . . a wound field
    motor has a flatter speed torque curve
    than PM motors under heavy load. They
    generally outperform PM starters under
    adverse conditions (cold, soggy battery,
    high resistance in cranking loop).
 
  [img]cid:16982567f58a8583ca21[/img]
    The downside of series wound motors include
    poor load-speed regulation; an unloaded
    PM motor has a limit on unloaded RPM.
    A series wound motor's unloaded speed
    is limited only by friction in the motor's
    construction. Some designs are at risk
    for self destruction if operated no-load.
 
    There are a dozen trade-offs for deciding
    which configuration to adopt for any given
    application. Neither configuration is
    'superior' to the other over the full
    spectrum of operating characteristics.
 
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  |   Also, does the series wound have more torque. | 	  
    Not 'more' but 'flatter' speed-torque
    characteristics under heavy load . . .
 
  
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  |  Is it more durable | 	  
    Not necessarily. Durability has more to
    do with design details and manufacturing
    quality than with choice of motors.
 
   	  | Quote: | 	 		   
    I have a Skytech PM on my O-320 thats getting a
  little sluggish on the initial turn of the prop.
  While I'm aware that there may be other causes,
  confidence that my engine will start reliably is important. | 	  
    Motor condition is but one of several reasons
    for sluggish performance. The weakest link
    in cranking chain is battery condition.
    Just for grins, jumper your car battery
    to the ship's battery and see how the engine
    cranks. If there is marked improvement,
    consider load/capacity checking your battery.
 
    A least likely reason for diminished
    performance is an increased voltage
    drop in cranking power loop.
 
  [img]cid:16982567f58aa0d15412[/img]
 
    It's expected that voltage available at the starter
    motor is lower than battery voltage. Just how much
    lower has an effect on cranking speed. I'd carefully
    check out the cranking power loop, ESPECIALLY the
    battery, before swapping out the starter.
 
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  |   I have heard good things about B&Cs starters.  While they're more expensive, I guess you get what you pay for. | 	  
 
    There were a number of discussions about the
    differences for B&C versus other players
    circa 1996. Here's one thread
 
   https://tinyurl.com/y38w4ksz
 
    In 23 years since, the various players
    have had ample opportunity to secure their
    position in the market based on perceived
    value and demonstrated track record. Further,
    I'm certain that many of the points cited
    in the thread are not longer valid . . .
    companies have changed hands and
    sales volumes have promoted better
    manufacturing techniques.
 
    I have no recent knowledge of player
    performance in today's starter market.
    But I can share that Robinson Helicopter
    was quite pleased with the performance
    and weight advantages of the B&C
    starters. They would swap B&C starters
    onto brand new engines fitted with
    factory supplied starters.
 
    B&C would receive boxes of Robinson
    starters pulled off engines taken
    down for overhaul and returned for reman. No
    matter how beat up and dirty the starters
    were on the outside, the wearing parts
    inside looked like they could go another
    2,000 hours on the airplane.
 
    I have no foundation to assert that
    the major players do not offer good
    value . . . but yes, in a free-market
    competition for customers, you generally
    do get what you pay for.
    
 
    
 
  
    Bob . . . 
    | 	 
 
 
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  http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |  
  |  
 
 
 
  
	
  
	 
	
	
		
	 
	
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		|  Viewed: | 
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		argoldman(at)aol.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
  | 
		
			
				 Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 9:55 am    Post subject: Starters | 
				     | 
			 
			
				
  | 
			 
			
				While you are checking...check all of the cable connections for security and corrosionRich
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Mar 15, 2019, at 12:18 PM, Steve Kelly <amsk22(at)gmail.com (amsk22(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  Bob,  Thank you for the reply.  I will try to get out to the hanger early next week and check the voltage readings.  The battery is a PC680 at three months old.   Do you have a method you would suggest to do a load/capacity check on it.Steve
 On Fri, Mar 15, 2019 at 8:27 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		    At 10:00 AM 3/13/2019, you wrote:
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Kelly" <amsk22(at)gmail.com (amsk22(at)gmail.com)>
 
  Can someone with more knowledge than me on the subject, tell me the difference
  between a series wound motor and a PM motor. | 	  
    That's a question with a really big answer.
    It fills a couple of volumes. It all depends
    on the application. Series wound motors for
    engine cranking are falling in popularity
    for a host of interleaved trade-offs. Strong
    influences on the shift to PM motors include
    falling costs of rare earth magnets compared
    to higher manufacturing costs for wound fields.
    Wound field motors seem to find favor with
    OEMs for diesel engines . . . a wound field
    motor has a flatter speed torque curve
    than PM motors under heavy load. They
    generally outperform PM starters under
    adverse conditions (cold, soggy battery,
    high resistance in cranking loop).
 
  <b1f680f.jpg>
    The downside of series wound motors include
    poor load-speed regulation; an unloaded
    PM motor has a limit on unloaded RPM.
    A series wound motor's unloaded speed
    is limited only by friction in the motor's
    construction. Some designs are at risk
    for self destruction if operated no-load.
 
    There are a dozen trade-offs for deciding
    which configuration to adopt for any given
    application. Neither configuration is
    'superior' to the other over the full
    spectrum of operating characteristics.
 
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  |   Also, does the series wound have more torque. | 	  
    Not 'more' but 'flatter' speed-torque
    characteristics under heavy load . . .
 
  
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  |  Is it more durable | 	  
    Not necessarily. Durability has more to
    do with design details and manufacturing
    quality than with choice of motors.
 
   	  | Quote: | 	 		   
    I have a Skytech PM on my O-320 thats getting a
  little sluggish on the initial turn of the prop.
  While I'm aware that there may be other causes,
  confidence that my engine will start reliably is important. | 	  
    Motor condition is but one of several reasons
    for sluggish performance. The weakest link
    in cranking chain is battery condition.
    Just for grins, jumper your car battery
    to the ship's battery and see how the engine
    cranks. If there is marked improvement,
    consider load/capacity checking your battery.
 
    A least likely reason for diminished
    performance is an increased voltage
    drop in cranking power loop.
 
  <b1f681f.jpg>
 
    It's expected that voltage available at the starter
    motor is lower than battery voltage. Just how much
    lower has an effect on cranking speed. I'd carefully
    check out the cranking power loop, ESPECIALLY the
    battery, before swapping out the starter.
 
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  |   I have heard good things about B&Cs starters.  While they're more expensive, I guess you get what you pay for. | 	  
 
    There were a number of discussions about the
    differences for B&C versus other players
    circa 1996. Here's one thread
 
   https://tinyurl.com/y38w4ksz
 
    In 23 years since, the various players
    have had ample opportunity to secure their
    position in the market based on perceived
    value and demonstrated track record. Further,
    I'm certain that many of the points cited
    in the thread are not longer valid . . .
    companies have changed hands and
    sales volumes have promoted better
    manufacturing techniques.
 
    I have no recent knowledge of player
    performance in today's starter market.
    But I can share that Robinson Helicopter
    was quite pleased with the performance
    and weight advantages of the B&C
    starters. They would swap B&C starters
    onto brand new engines fitted with
    factory supplied starters.
 
    B&C would receive boxes of Robinson
    starters pulled off engines taken
    down for overhaul and returned for reman. No
    matter how beat up and dirty the starters
    were on the outside, the wearing parts
    inside looked like they could go another
    2,000 hours on the airplane.
 
    I have no foundation to assert that
    the major players do not offer good
    value . . . but yes, in a free-market
    competition for customers, you generally
    do get what you pay for.
    
 
    
 
  
    Bob . . . 
    | 	  
  
  | 	 
 
 
  |  | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - |  |   |  Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
 
  http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |  
  |  
 
 
 
  
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		cluros(at)gmail.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
  | 
		
			
				 Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 11:17 am    Post subject: Starters | 
				     | 
			 
			
				
  | 
			 
			
				That is a very common battery, any battery store will test it for you.
 
 On Fri, Mar 15, 2019, 13:31 Steve Kelly <amsk22(at)gmail.com (amsk22(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  Bob,  Thank you for the reply.  I will try to get out to the hanger early next week and check the voltage readings.  The battery is a PC680 at three months old.   Do you have a method you would suggest to do a load/capacity check on it.Steve
 On Fri, Mar 15, 2019 at 8:27 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		    At 10:00 AM 3/13/2019, you wrote:
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Kelly" <amsk22(at)gmail.com (amsk22(at)gmail.com)>
 
  Can someone with more knowledge than me on the subject, tell me the difference
  between a series wound motor and a PM motor. | 	  
    That's a question with a really big answer.
    It fills a couple of volumes. It all depends
    on the application. Series wound motors for
    engine cranking are falling in popularity
    for a host of interleaved trade-offs. Strong
    influences on the shift to PM motors include
    falling costs of rare earth magnets compared
    to higher manufacturing costs for wound fields.
    Wound field motors seem to find favor with
    OEMs for diesel engines . . . a wound field
    motor has a flatter speed torque curve
    than PM motors under heavy load. They
    generally outperform PM starters under
    adverse conditions (cold, soggy battery,
    high resistance in cranking loop).
 
  [img]cid:16982567f58a8583ca21[/img]
    The downside of series wound motors include
    poor load-speed regulation; an unloaded
    PM motor has a limit on unloaded RPM.
    A series wound motor's unloaded speed
    is limited only by friction in the motor's
    construction. Some designs are at risk
    for self destruction if operated no-load.
 
    There are a dozen trade-offs for deciding
    which configuration to adopt for any given
    application. Neither configuration is
    'superior' to the other over the full
    spectrum of operating characteristics.
 
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  |   Also, does the series wound have more torque. | 	  
    Not 'more' but 'flatter' speed-torque
    characteristics under heavy load . . .
 
  
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  |  Is it more durable | 	  
    Not necessarily. Durability has more to
    do with design details and manufacturing
    quality than with choice of motors.
 
   	  | Quote: | 	 		   
    I have a Skytech PM on my O-320 thats getting a
  little sluggish on the initial turn of the prop.
  While I'm aware that there may be other causes,
  confidence that my engine will start reliably is important. | 	  
    Motor condition is but one of several reasons
    for sluggish performance. The weakest link
    in cranking chain is battery condition.
    Just for grins, jumper your car battery
    to the ship's battery and see how the engine
    cranks. If there is marked improvement,
    consider load/capacity checking your battery.
 
    A least likely reason for diminished
    performance is an increased voltage
    drop in cranking power loop.
 
  [img]cid:16982567f58aa0d15412[/img]
 
    It's expected that voltage available at the starter
    motor is lower than battery voltage. Just how much
    lower has an effect on cranking speed. I'd carefully
    check out the cranking power loop, ESPECIALLY the
    battery, before swapping out the starter.
 
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  |   I have heard good things about B&Cs starters.  While they're more expensive, I guess you get what you pay for. | 	  
 
    There were a number of discussions about the
    differences for B&C versus other players
    circa 1996. Here's one thread
 
   https://tinyurl.com/y38w4ksz
 
    In 23 years since, the various players
    have had ample opportunity to secure their
    position in the market based on perceived
    value and demonstrated track record. Further,
    I'm certain that many of the points cited
    in the thread are not longer valid . . .
    companies have changed hands and
    sales volumes have promoted better
    manufacturing techniques.
 
    I have no recent knowledge of player
    performance in today's starter market.
    But I can share that Robinson Helicopter
    was quite pleased with the performance
    and weight advantages of the B&C
    starters. They would swap B&C starters
    onto brand new engines fitted with
    factory supplied starters.
 
    B&C would receive boxes of Robinson
    starters pulled off engines taken
    down for overhaul and returned for reman. No
    matter how beat up and dirty the starters
    were on the outside, the wearing parts
    inside looked like they could go another
    2,000 hours on the airplane.
 
    I have no foundation to assert that
    the major players do not offer good
    value . . . but yes, in a free-market
    competition for customers, you generally
    do get what you pay for.
    
 
    
 
  
    Bob . . . 
    | 	  
   | 	 
 
 
  |  | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - |  |   |  Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
 
  http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |  
  |  
 
 
 
  
	
  
	 
	
	
		
	 
	
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		Kellym
 
 
  Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 1706 Location: Sun Lakes AZ
  | 
		
			
				 Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 12:38 pm    Post subject: Starters | 
				     | 
			 
			
				
  | 
			 
			
				Odyssey batteries are often prematurely aged by keeping on a battery 
 maintainer. If you contact Odyssey they can give you a rejuvenation 
 protocol to restore the battery to near full capacity. I'm at about 4 
 years on my Odyssey 925 in the Aridzona heat, and still working fine.
 
 On 3/15/2019 12:15 PM, Sebastien wrote:
  	  | Quote: | 	 		   That is a very common battery, any battery store will test it for you.
  
  On Fri, Mar 15, 2019, 13:31 Steve Kelly <amsk22(at)gmail.com 
  <mailto:amsk22(at)gmail.com>> wrote:
  
      Bob,  Thank you for the reply.  I will try to get out to the hanger
      early next week and check the voltage readings.  The battery is a
      PC680 at three months old.   Do you have a method you would suggest
      to do a load/capacity check on it.
      Steve
  
  | 	 
 
 
  |  | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - |  |   |  Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
 
  http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |  
  |  
 
 
 
  
 _________________ Kelly McMullen
 
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
 
KCHD | 
			 
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		nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
 
 
 
 
 
  | 
		
			
				 Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2019 6:06 am    Post subject: Starters | 
				     | 
			 
			
				
  | 
			 
			
				At 02:15 PM 3/15/2019, you wrote:
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  That is a very common battery, any battery store will test it for you.
 
  On Fri, Mar 15, 2019, 13:31 Steve Kelly <amsk22(at)gmail.com (amsk22(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
    Bob,  Thank you for the reply.  I will try to get out to the hanger early next week and check the voltage readings.  The battery is a PC680 at three months old.   Do you have a method you would suggest to do a load/capacity check on it. | 	   
  That's a pretty fresh battery . . . this suggests
  the problem is elsewhere. However, in answer to
  your testing questions, I'll suggest that
  every owner of an aircraft should also own
  something like this
 
   https://tinyurl.com/yag4529y
 
  
  This LOAD tester allows you to load the battery
  to an output of 9 volts while waiting for the
  15 second timer light to go out. Note the current
  at the end of 15 seconds . . . it should be in
  excess of 200A for small engines, 300A for larger
  engines. This test confirms the battery's avbility
  to grunt the extra-ordinary demands for cranking
  the engine.
 
  A CAPACITY test seeks to quantify the battery's
  ENERGY content . . . which is entirely separate
  from the capability to grunt a cranking load.
  There are some rather small batteries that have
  demonstrated the ability to crank a turbine
  engine
 
   https://tinyurl.com/yye6znqp
 
  But this product wouldn't run the aircraft's
  critical systems for very long after the
  alternator quits. There are dozens of 'tiny'
  products that offer a similar utility
 
   https://tinyurl.com/y2hzkq9l
 
  The way to cap check your battery is to set
  up your panel to operate your Plan-B (alternator
  out) electrical loads and monitor battery voltage
  with a voltmeter. The time it takes to reduce
  battery voltage to 10V (the lower limit for
  your avionics to operate).
 
  For example, a NEW PC680 has the following
  ENERGY delivery capability.
 
  [img]cid:.0[/img]
  Assume a 4A endurance load. The curves say you're
  good to 3 hours. Here you have to tailor the question
  to match your own endurance requirements. If one hour
  meets your own Plan-B design goals, then according
  to the chart, the new battery is good for about 10A.
  Actually, you would want to rate the battery for about
  8A given that maintenance  protocols suggest replacing
  the battery at 75% of new capacity.
 
  Then there's the real-life test . . . turn on the
  goodies, start the clock, watch the voltage, measure
  the time then recharge the battery. If that time
  is equal to or greater than your design goals, then
  you're good to fly.
 
  How old is your starter? It MIGHT be that brushes
  and/or commutator are worn to the point of producing
  degraded performance.
 
  
  
    Bob . . .
 
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		Steve Kelly
 
 
  Joined: 08 Jul 2016 Posts: 18
 
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				 Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2019 7:37 am    Post subject: Starters | 
				     | 
			 
			
				
  | 
			 
			
				Bob.  Thanks for the help.  I had a chance to do the voltage tests like you suggested.  They were fairly similar to your your're example.  While cranking the voltage at the battery was around 10.5 and at the starter it was between 7.5 and 8.5 volts.  I also acquired a load tester.  At the end of the 15 sec test current was about 330 amps.  Battery voltage dropped to 11.3 volts.  The starter is a Sky Tec 149xlt.  It's about 3 years old and has 170 hours on it.  This is probably the smallest starter Sky Tec makes.  Not sure if it's the weakest one.  Other contributing factors are cooler weather, fresh engine overhaul, and a lightweight prop.  Still, the starter should spin it better than it is.  Do worn starters draw the battery down faster?
   Also, just to be clear, replacing the battery at 75% refers to the time it takes to drop to 10 volts, correct?  In you're example above when the PC680 gets to 10v in 2.25 hours it's time to consider replacement.
  Steve
   
  
 
 
 On Sat, Mar 16, 2019 at 10:13 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		    At 02:15 PM 3/15/2019, you wrote:
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  That is a very common battery, any battery store will test it for you.
 
  On Fri, Mar 15, 2019, 13:31 Steve Kelly <amsk22(at)gmail.com (amsk22(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
   | 	    Bob,  Thank you for the reply.  I will try to get out to the hanger early next week and check the voltage readings.  The battery is a PC680 at three months old.   Do you have a method you would suggest to do a load/capacity check on it. 
  That's a pretty fresh battery . . . this suggests
  the problem is elsewhere. However, in answer to
  your testing questions, I'll suggest that
  every owner of an aircraft should also own
  something like this
 
   https://tinyurl.com/yag4529y
 
  
  This LOAD tester allows you to load the battery
  to an output of 9 volts while waiting for the
  15 second timer light to go out. Note the current
  at the end of 15 seconds . . . it should be in
  excess of 200A for small engines, 300A for larger
  engines. This test confirms the battery's avbility
  to grunt the extra-ordinary demands for cranking
  the engine.
 
  A CAPACITY test seeks to quantify the battery's
  ENERGY content . . . which is entirely separate
  from the capability to grunt a cranking load.
  There are some rather small batteries that have
  demonstrated the ability to crank a turbine
  engine
 
   https://tinyurl.com/yye6znqp
 
  But this product wouldn't run the aircraft's
  critical systems for very long after the
  alternator quits. There are dozens of 'tiny'
  products that offer a similar utility
 
   https://tinyurl.com/y2hzkq9l
 
  The way to cap check your battery is to set
  up your panel to operate your Plan-B (alternator
  out) electrical loads and monitor battery voltage
  with a voltmeter. The time it takes to reduce
  battery voltage to 10V (the lower limit for
  your avionics to operate).
 
  For example, a NEW PC680 has the following
  ENERGY delivery capability.
 
  [img]cid:169915204ebb1ccea621[/img]
  Assume a 4A endurance load. The curves say you're
  good to 3 hours. Here you have to tailor the question
  to match your own endurance requirements. If one hour
  meets your own Plan-B design goals, then according
  to the chart, the new battery is good for about 10A.
  Actually, you would want to rate the battery for about
  8A given that maintenance  protocols suggest replacing
  the battery at 75% of new capacity.
 
  Then there's the real-life test . . . turn on the
  goodies, start the clock, watch the voltage, measure
  the time then recharge the battery. If that time
  is equal to or greater than your design goals, then
  you're good to fly.
 
  How old is your starter? It MIGHT be that brushes
  and/or commutator are worn to the point of producing
  degraded performance.
 
  
  
    Bob . . .
    | 	 
 
 
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		millner(at)me.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
  | 
		
			
				 Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2019 9:19 am    Post subject: Starters | 
				     | 
			 
			
				
  | 
			 
			
				2-3 volts is a huge voltage drop. You need to determine where that’s happening... SkyTec has a troubleshooting chart to help you find the bad actor
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Mar 18, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Steve Kelly <amsk22(at)gmail.com (amsk22(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  Bob.  Thanks for the help.  I had a chance to do the voltage tests like you suggested.  They were fairly similar to your your're example.  While cranking the voltage at the battery was around 10.5 and at the starter it was between 7.5 and 8.5 volts.  I also acquired a load tester.  At the end of the 15 sec test current was about 330 amps.  Battery voltage dropped to 11.3 volts.  The starter is a Sky Tec 149xlt.  It's about 3 years old and has 170 hours on it.  This is probably the smallest starter Sky Tec makes.  Not sure if it's the weakest one.  Other contributing factors are cooler weather, fresh engine overhaul, and a lightweight prop.  Still, the starter should spin it better than it is.  Do worn starters draw the battery down faster?
   Also, just to be clear, replacing the battery at 75% refers to the time it takes to drop to 10 volts, correct?  In you're example above when the PC680 gets to 10v in 2.25 hours it's time to consider replacement.
  Steve
   
  
 
 
 On Sat, Mar 16, 2019 at 10:13 AM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		    At 02:15 PM 3/15/2019, you wrote:
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  That is a very common battery, any battery store will test it for you.
 
  On Fri, Mar 15, 2019, 13:31 Steve Kelly <amsk22(at)gmail.com (amsk22(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
   | 	    Bob,  Thank you for the reply.  I will try to get out to the hanger early next week and check the voltage readings.  The battery is a PC680 at three months old.   Do you have a method you would suggest to do a load/capacity check on it. 
  That's a pretty fresh battery . . . this suggests
  the problem is elsewhere. However, in answer to
  your testing questions, I'll suggest that
  every owner of an aircraft should also own
  something like this
 
   https://tinyurl.com/yag4529y
 
  
  This LOAD tester allows you to load the battery
  to an output of 9 volts while waiting for the
  15 second timer light to go out. Note the current
  at the end of 15 seconds . . . it should be in
  excess of 200A for small engines, 300A for larger
  engines. This test confirms the battery's avbility
  to grunt the extra-ordinary demands for cranking
  the engine.
 
  A CAPACITY test seeks to quantify the battery's
  ENERGY content . . . which is entirely separate
  from the capability to grunt a cranking load.
  There are some rather small batteries that have
  demonstrated the ability to crank a turbine
  engine
 
   https://tinyurl.com/yye6znqp
 
  But this product wouldn't run the aircraft's
  critical systems for very long after the
  alternator quits. There are dozens of 'tiny'
  products that offer a similar utility
 
   https://tinyurl.com/y2hzkq9l
 
  The way to cap check your battery is to set
  up your panel to operate your Plan-B (alternator
  out) electrical loads and monitor battery voltage
  with a voltmeter. The time it takes to reduce
  battery voltage to 10V (the lower limit for
  your avionics to operate).
 
  For example, a NEW PC680 has the following
  ENERGY delivery capability.
 
  <10a704b8.jpg>
  Assume a 4A endurance load. The curves say you're
  good to 3 hours. Here you have to tailor the question
  to match your own endurance requirements. If one hour
  meets your own Plan-B design goals, then according
  to the chart, the new battery is good for about 10A.
  Actually, you would want to rate the battery for about
  8A given that maintenance  protocols suggest replacing
  the battery at 75% of new capacity.
 
  Then there's the real-life test . . . turn on the
  goodies, start the clock, watch the voltage, measure
  the time then recharge the battery. If that time
  is equal to or greater than your design goals, then
  you're good to fly.
 
  How old is your starter? It MIGHT be that brushes
  and/or commutator are worn to the point of producing
  degraded performance.
 
  
  
    Bob . . .
    | 	  
  
  | 	 
 
 
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		nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
 
 
 
 
 
  | 
		
			
				 Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2019 9:31 am    Post subject: Starters | 
				     | 
			 
			
				
  | 
			 
			
				At 12:09 PM 3/18/2019, you wrote:
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  2-3 volts is a huge voltage drop. You need to determine where that’s happening... SkyTec has a troubleshooting chart to help you find the bad actor
   | 	   
    Agreed. Use a voltmeter between
 
    (1) battery(+) and starter power terminal
        while cranking.
 
    (2) battery(-) and crankcase.
 
    Where is your battery located with respect
    to starter i.e. how long are the wires
    and what gage are they?
 
    This is a NEW condition . . . used to crank
    right smartly and only now sluggish?
 
  
  
    Bob . . .
 
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		Steve Kelly
 
 
  Joined: 08 Jul 2016 Posts: 18
 
  | 
		
			
				 Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2019 1:51 pm    Post subject: Starters | 
				     | 
			 
			
				
  | 
			 
			
				Bob,  The slow prop became more noticeable after rebuilding the engine last summer.  Fresh cylinders along with upping the compression ratio from 7 to 8.5.   
   The battery and solenoids are located on the firewall.  So the cables are not very long.  Maybe 5' total and 2' for ground.  They are B&Cs 4 ga. weld cable.
   Looking at the measurements I made yesterday, the drop on the negative was small, maybe .3 volts.  The biggest drop was somewhere between the battery and in side of the starter solenoid.   10.5 volts down to around 8.  Didn't check either side of the battery contactor as the battery was getting low.  I have a brass strap that connects between the two contactors.  1/2' wide by about 4" long.  Do you think this may not be adequate.  Either that or the battery contactor.  I will check the voltages there when I get back out to the hanger.  
  Thanks, Steve
 On Mon, Mar 18, 2019 at 1:37 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		    At 12:09 PM 3/18/2019, you wrote:
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  2-3 volts is a huge voltage drop. You need to determine where that’s happening... SkyTec has a troubleshooting chart to help you find the bad actor
   | 	   
    Agreed. Use a voltmeter between
 
    (1) battery(+) and starter power terminal
        while cranking.
 
    (2) battery(-) and crankcase.
 
    Where is your battery located with respect
    to starter i.e. how long are the wires
    and what gage are they?
 
    This is a NEW condition . . . used to crank
    right smartly and only now sluggish?
 
  
  
    Bob . . .  
  | 	 
 
 
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		Kellym
 
 
  Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 1706 Location: Sun Lakes AZ
  | 
		
			
				 Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2019 6:03 pm    Post subject: Starters | 
				     | 
			 
			
				
  | 
			 
			
				Your compression change is not significant in terms of starter cranking. 
 A PC680 easily cranks an 0-360 with 8.5 compression.
 Check to see that each connection is at proper torque at the max end of 
 scale for bolt size. Check the drop across the solenoid.
 Now that you have run the battery down a fair amount, charge it at 
 around 3 amps until full charge. Should have a resting voltage of 12.9 
 to 13.0 four or more hours after off charger. If less, may need 
 rejuvenation through several discharge, charge cycles.
 
 On 3/18/2019 2:49 PM, Steve Kelly wrote:
  	  | Quote: | 	 		   Bob,
     The slow prop became more noticeable after rebuilding the engine last 
  summer.  Fresh cylinders along with upping the compression ratio from 7 
  to 8.5.
     The battery and solenoids are located on the firewall.  So the cables 
  are not very long.  Maybe 5' total and 2' for ground.  They are B&Cs 4 
  ga. weld cable.
     Looking at the measurements I made yesterday, the drop on the 
  negative was small, maybe .3 volts.  The biggest drop was somewhere 
  between the battery and in side of the starter solenoid.   10.5 volts 
  down to around 8.  Didn't check either side of the battery contactor as 
  the battery was getting low.  I have a brass strap that connects between 
  the two contactors.  1/2' wide by about 4" long.  Do you think this may 
  not be adequate.  Either that or the battery contactor.  I will check 
  the voltages there when I get back out to the hanger.
    Thanks, Steve
  
  On Mon, Mar 18, 2019 at 1:37 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III 
  <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com <mailto:nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>> 
  wrote:
  
      At 12:09 PM 3/18/2019, you wrote:
 >     2-3 volts is a huge voltage drop. You need to determine where
 >     that’s happening... SkyTec has a troubleshooting chart to help
 >     you find the bad actor
 >
  
         Agreed. Use a voltmeter between
  
         (1) battery(+) and starter power terminal
             while cranking.
  
         (2) battery(-) and crankcase.
  
         Where is your battery located with respect
         to starter i.e. how long are the wires
         and what gage are they?
  
         This is a NEW condition . . . used to crank
         right smartly and only now sluggish?
  
  
      __
  
      __   Bob . . .
  
  | 	 
 
 
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  http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |  
  |  
 
 
 
  
 _________________ Kelly McMullen
 
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
 
KCHD | 
			 
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