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		sarg314(at)comcast.net Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 8:00 pm    Post subject: exhaust bolt torque | 
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				I was going to torque down the nuts on the exhaust studs on my O-360 
 when I noticed a contradiction between my torque tables and Larry 
 Vetterman's instructions.  Larry says to torque the nuts to 100- 140 
 in-lb.  That's the torque value for a 5/16-24 bolt, according to my 
 table.  But the exhaust studs in my engine are 5/16-18.  The torque 
 table says to use 80-90 in-lb for the coarse thread 5/16 bolts. 
 
 What's the right torque value here?
 
 Is this another situation like the engine case bolts (1/4-20) which are 
 torqued at 90 - 100 in-lb (about double the value listed in the table)?
 
 --
 Tom Sargent, RV-6A
 
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		Vanremog(at)aol.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 8:15 pm    Post subject: exhaust bolt torque | 
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				In a message dated 7/10/2006 9:02:38 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  sarg314(at)comcast.net writes:
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  I    noticed a contradiction between my torque tables and Larry 
 Vetterman's    instructions.  Larry says to torque the nuts to 100- 140 
 in-lb.     That's the torque value for a 5/16-24 bolt, according to my  
 table. | 	  
  
  =========================================
   
  I torqued them to 100-140 in-lb just as Larry indicates.   He's the exhaust expert as far as I'm concerned!
   
   
   
  GV (RV-6A  N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 801hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
 
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		lhelming(at)sigecom.net Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 6:08 am    Post subject: exhaust bolt torque | 
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				I torqued my O360 at 90 in-lbs.  They have not come off or loosened in over 
 100 hours.  I checked them at last annual and they were all still tight. 
 AND No leaks.
 
 Maybe it should be considered to torque at the low end of Vetterman's or the 
 high end of the published torque table in the manual.  I am sure Vetterman 
 knows his stuff.  That is quite a spread between 100 and 140 however. 
 Usually you find this type spread when a cotter pin needs to be used which 
 is not the case here.  Indiana Larry
 
 ---
 
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		Hopperdhh(at)aol.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 4:29 am    Post subject: exhaust bolt torque | 
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  Tom,
   
  I remember this coming up before, but not with the exhaust bolts.  The  torque tables for the airframe do not apply to the engine!  I personally  think that the low torque values used for the airframe have to do with clamping  aluminum and not crushing it.  The AN bolts are good for probably twice the  torque in the airframe tables.  (IMHO -- please don't hold me to that last  statement!)
   
  do not archive
   
  Dan Hopper
  RV-7A and longtime shade tree mechanic
   
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  >    --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314    <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  
  I was going to torque down the    nuts on the exhaust studs on my O-360 when 
  I noticed a contradiction    between my torque tables and Larry Vetterman's 
  instructions.     Larry says to torque the nuts to 100- 140 in-lb.  That's 
  the    torque value for a 5/16-24 bolt, according to my table.  But the 
     exhaust studs in my engine are 5/16-18.  The torque table says to use    
  80-90 in-lb for the coarse thread 5/16 bolts.
  What's the    right torque value here?
 
  --
  Tom Sargent,    RV-6A
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		az_gila
 
 
  Joined: 17 Jun 2006 Posts: 99 Location: Tucson, AZ
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		rv9jim(at)juno.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:27 am    Post subject: exhaust bolt torque | 
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				Gil,
         I don't have the overhaul manual but I need the size of the bolts
 that go into the machined boss that was origionally used for the
 generator on the lycoming o-360.  This is an area that has three tapped
 holes just on the generator side of the case.  It is bigger than a 1/4"
 but not 5/16".   I want to support the starter cable as it leaves the
 starter and heads back to the start solenoid.  With an adel clamp in that
 position, it will releive strain where the start cable attaches to the
 starter.
 Jim Nelson
 
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		az_gila
 
 
  Joined: 17 Jun 2006 Posts: 99 Location: Tucson, AZ
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				 Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:47 am    Post subject: Re: exhaust bolt torque | 
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				Jim... I don't have my parts manual here - a different book from the overhaul manual - but Lycoming only uses US coarse thread screws.
 
 If it's not 1/4, then I bet it's a 5/16-18
 
 Buy a cheap 5/16 bolt from the hw store and see if it threads in.   It should not be an odd size.
 
 gil in Tucson
 
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		Hopperdhh(at)aol.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 9:04 am    Post subject: exhaust bolt torque | 
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				I'm pretty sure its a 1/4-20.  It is on my IO-360.
   
  do not archive
   
  Dan Hopper
  RV-7A
 
   
   In a message dated 7/30/2006 12:52:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  gilalex(at)earthlink.net writes:
   	  | Quote: | 	 		  -->    RV-List message posted by: "az_gila"    <gilalex(at)earthlink.net>
 
 Jim... I don't have my parts manual here    - a different book from the overhaul manual - but Lycoming only uses US coarse    thread screws.
 
 If it's not 1/4, then I bet it's a 5/16-18
 
 Buy a    cheap 5/16 bolt from the hw store and see if it threads in.   It    should not be an odd size.
 
 gil in  Tucson
 
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		bicyclop(at)pacbell.net Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:36 am    Post subject: exhaust bolt torque | 
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				Watch out for those crush type exhaust gaskets. I had one of those burn
 through allowing the nuts to loosen and fall off. The pipe was found
 hanging (barely) on the end of the stud. I replaced it with a solid
 "blow proof" gasket. I checked the other 3 gaskets when we got home and
 they all showed signs of damage and some leakage. Replaced all. 700
 hours on engine at the time.
 
 Ed Holyoke
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  Lycoming also has another set of instructions for crush type
 copper/asbestos gaskets - which I believe the exhaust gaskets would fall
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 under.
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  In this case, for a 18 threads to the inch bolt/stud, tighten until
 surfaces are in contact and then tighten another 135 degrees.
 | 	  
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  This is only if the exhaust gaskets fall under the description of a
 "crush type" gasket 
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 Perhaps a A&P can help out here... I'm only an airframe mechanic...
 [Wink]      ... but I got the Lycoming book...
 
 
 
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		FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Wed Aug 02, 2006 1:56 pm    Post subject: exhaust bolt torque | 
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				In a message dated 7/30/06 2:38:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
 bicyclop(at)pacbell.net writes:
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		   Watch out for those crush type exhaust gaskets. I had one of those burn
   through allowing the nuts to loosen and fall off. The pipe was found
   hanging (barely) on the end of the stud. I replaced it with a solid
   "blow proof" gasket. I checked the other 3 gaskets when we got home and
   they all showed signs of damage and some leakage. Replaced all. 700
   hours on engine at the time.
   
   Ed Holyoke
 =======================
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 Ed:
 
 You are 100% right on!
 
 A cheep friend, purchased a set of those soft -- gaskets (guaranteed to  
 blowout) and not one, but two of them were totally burnt out and missing.  The 
 exhaust pipes were just barely hanging there. There was so much noise but he was 
 more interested in flying than looking under the cowl.  In the process he also 
 ruined two exhaust mounting studs.  So did he save any money?  I don't think 
 so! ! ! 
 
 Barry
 "Chop'd Liver"
 
 "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third 
 time." 
 Yamashiada
 
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