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Nose Rib Forming Block

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dfmoeller

Joined: 19 Jun 2006
Posts: 60
Location: Austin, TX

Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 1:31 pm Post subject: Nose Rib Forming Block

A question for you scratchbuilders out there.  How really necessary are the 

1/8 aluminum face plates on the forming blocks on the 601XL' nose ribs.  I 

need to form some nose ribs and  routing 1/8" think aluminum is scaring the 

crap out of me.  I'm unable to hold the form steady enough to push through 

the router table.



How about some suggestions from the scratchbuilders who have passed this 

point successfully.



Doug

grs-pms(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 2:09 pm Post subject: Nose Rib Forming Block

Doug:



I have had good luck using tempered Masonite.  It's easy to cut with a

bandsaw or router and it's tough enough to last thru your project, and

probably beyond.  You can radius it with a file and skip the router

altogether.



George





---

gboothe(at)calply.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 2:15 pm Post subject: Nose Rib Forming Block

Doug,



I know it's heresy for those of us with power tools, but I formed the radius

with a file. It should only take about 30 minutes to file and smooth.



Thinking back, though, I could have fastened the 1/8" aluminum to the

forming blocks and run the router around the edge. If you haven't yet tried

using a router on aluminum, it's quite easy - hardly any different than

wood.



Gary Boothe 

Cool, CA 

601 HDSTD, WW Conversion 90% done, 

Tail done, wings done, working on c-section



--

davidhwright(at)mac.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 2:19 pm Post subject: Nose Rib Forming Block

Doug



I have just finished my nose ribs and main ribs using ordinary plywood - bought from the local  B&Q DIY store.

I am going with the extended fuel tanks so I made 7 nose ribs per wing, the plywood held up very well and I believe I could make quite a few more.

I did not treat the plywood in any way and just ran the 1/8" radius on the edge of the plywood. 

The results were fine.



David Wright

601XL - Scratch build - wings

Washington UK



On Saturday, November 04, 2006, at 01:43PM, "Doug Moellering" <dfmoeller(at)austin.rr.com> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  



A question for you scratchbuilders out there.  How really necessary are the 

1/8 aluminum face plates on the forming blocks on the 601XL' nose ribs.  I 

need to form some nose ribs and  routing 1/8" think aluminum is scaring the 

crap out of me.  I'm unable to hold the form steady enough to push through 

the router table.



How about some suggestions from the scratchbuilders who have passed this 

point successfully.



Doug 

_-s

Carlos Sa

Joined: 13 Jan 2006
Posts: 96

Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 2:32 pm Post subject: Nose Rib Forming Block

Hello, Doug



I made my forming blocks with MDF, and then applied two coats of Varathane. All ribs were made with the same set of 4 blocks (nose and rear, left and right), and they are still good.



Regarding routers: I have used a hand-held router for trimming thin and thick material, no problems - except it requires attention and a steady pair of hands. I have used a straight bit for this.



Carlos

CH601-HD, plans

Leading edge of right wing assembled, drilled a clecoed 

Montreal, Canada



---

_________________
CH601-HD, plans
Montreal, Canada

dfmoeller

Joined: 19 Jun 2006
Posts: 60
Location: Austin, TX

Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 3:12 pm Post subject: Re: Nose Rib Forming Block

Thanks all for the help.  I'm going to get rid of that 1/8" aluminum layer and just radius the forming blocks.  I've made the blocks from 3/4" oak finish grade plywood, 9 ply, so they should hold up, and if they don't, I'll just make another set.  1/8" aluminum screwed to the blocks is unsafe to rout with a router table.  That router is throwing the block all over the place, I simply can't hold it secure enough and with the sharp edges, I'm already bleeding like a stuck pig.  Maybe I could reverse strategy, clamp the part and hold the router, but I really don't see the need.  Easier just to make an extra set if the first wears out.



I did like the idea of masonite though, or maybe a formica layer instead of aluminum.



This list is invaluable!



Doug

nfivesl(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 3:44 pm Post subject: Nose Rib Forming Block

Doug:



Just make them out of MDF and hand sand the corners.  I did this with my first few ribs.  When you get to the wing ribs (lots to do), you can set up the router for mass production.  Don't worry about the aluminum.  It's not necessary.  MDF will make many, many ribs before deteriorating.



Keep moving forward, you are on the right track. 



Scott Laughlin

www.cooknwithgas.com

Working on BRS details



---

larry(at)macsmachine.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 5:03 pm Post subject: Nose Rib Forming Block

Doug,

My rib forming blocks were 5/8-inch plywood on both sides.  Being 

tapered wings, a 7-degree back-angle was on both sides. There were two 

bolts, one each end, to align things and the aluminum sandwiched between 

the former blocks was also gripped by the vise I used to hold things 

while flanges were progressively bent. I didn't have any difficulty with 

the wood forms and could probably build another 10 sets of ribs with 

them. Never used aluminum back up plates and besides, they would have 

been a lot of unnecessary work.

http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/viewwingrivets.jpg



Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com



Doug Moellering wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 <dfmoeller(at)austin.rr.com>



 A question for you scratchbuilders out there.  How really necessary 

 are the 1/8 aluminum face plates on the forming blocks on the 601XL' 

 nose ribs.  I need to form some nose ribs and  routing 1/8" think 

 aluminum is scaring the crap out of me.  I'm unable to hold the form 

 steady enough to push through the router table.



 How about some suggestions from the scratchbuilders who have passed 

 this point successfully.



 Doug

Ron Lendon

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 685
Location: Clinton Twp., MI

Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 8:07 pm Post subject: Re: Nose Rib Forming Block

I used 3/4"  MDF and polysealed em.  Worked great.  I did make up a small aluminum block to qualify the nose radius wrinkles.  Picture attached:



I used a polished face hammer and just shrunk out the wrinkles by gently tapping the material to conform with the backing block.



Process on mykitlog here:



http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&category=0&log=18313&row=99

100_0718.jpg

Description:

Small radius block of 3/4" aluminum to backup the short flange to qualify out the wrinkles.

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708.41 KB

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435 Time(s)

_________________
Ron Lendon
WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
CH 601 XLB
N601LT - Flying
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Corvair Engine Prints:
https://sites.google.com/site/corvairenginedata/

mgraves(at)usmo.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 3:00 am Post subject: Nose Rib Forming Block

sink counter top cutouts make good form blocks......the formica is hard 

enough, and makes a good edge the 1/8 inch radius is easily filed or sanded 

on the formica......



Monty

 	  Quote: 	
		  I did like the idea of masonite though, or maybe a formica layer instead 

of aluminum.



This list is invaluable!



Doug





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