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Setting trailing edges of control surfaces

 
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kearney(at)shaw.ca
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 8:29 pm    Post subject: Setting trailing edges of control surfaces Reply with quote

Hi

When I visited a couple of builders on Oregon, one mentioned that he wished he used a piece of angle to ensure that his rudder edge was straight. I did that with my rudder and was very happy with the result. I have just completed my elevator trailing edges the same way have achieved brutally straight elevators.

Given that I had to muddle my way through this, I thought I would share what I did for the benefit of others.

I picked up a 6 ft length of angle aluminum at Rona (a Canadian version of Home Depot), cut it in half and proceeded to drill #40 holes in each section. The hole spacing matching the holes in the skins. To get the spacing right, I used the trailing edge wedge to mark the holes and drilled accordingly. I also made sure that the holes were not too far from the edge of the aluminum so that when clecoed in place, the aluminum did not extend beyond the trailing edge wedge on onto the “unsupported skin. I didn’t want to mark the skin forward of the trailing edge.

After gluing the wedge in place, I clecoed a section of the aluminum angle to either side of the control surface putting a cleco in every hole. My guess is that the clecos have a combined pressure in excess of anything you could get using the Van’s recommended method. Anyway, after letting the glue dry I removed the clecos and riveted as per the instructions. The end result was rudder and elevator trailing edges that are straight as an arrow. I did weight the skins as required for vans but this was to ensure that the internal foam spacers were properly set in place as the adhesive cured.

Attached is a small photo of one of the elevators with the angle aluminum installed.

The other small deviation from the plans was the use of LePage PL2000 adhesive rather than tank sealant to glue the wedges in place. This was based on a recommendation of a local RV builder. Given the purpose of the adhesive it seems a reasonable change especially given that it is much easier to use (no mixing) than tank sealant and cures in hours.

Cheers

Les Kearney
RV10 - # 40643 – Lost in the empennage


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orchidman



Joined: 10 Jul 2006
Posts: 277
Location: Oklahoma City - KRCE

PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:38 am    Post subject: Re: Setting trailing edges of control surfaces Reply with quote

kearney(at)shaw.ca wrote:

Given the purpose of the adhesive it .....

I am new at this, can you please expand on the 'purpose'. Is it to hold the wedge in place while riviting, or seal it from water etc.


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Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
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kearney(at)shaw.ca
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 12:25 pm    Post subject: Setting trailing edges of control surfaces Reply with quote

Hi Gary

As I understand the process, it is to hold the wedge in place for riveting
as well as sets up the alignment of the trailing edges so that they are
straight. If you merely clecoed the wedges in place and riveted, you would
likely end up with a bend / bow etc in the trailing edge. The Van's method
of gluing and weighting the edges allows the alignment to be "set" by the
adhesive in preparation for riveting.

I am very happy with the results I have achieved using angle aluminum and
the PL2000 adhesive.

Cheers

Les Kearney
RV10 - # 40643 - Lost in the empennage

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orchidman



Joined: 10 Jul 2006
Posts: 277
Location: Oklahoma City - KRCE

PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Setting trailing edges of control surfaces Reply with quote

I am approaching time to order the ProSeal for my Emp kit but now I am wondering if I already have a product on hand that will perform this functionality.

I have about a pint of 3M Scotch-Weld 2216 Epoxy adhesive left after I used it to attach my bubble canopy to the 4130 frame on my Skybolt. The can is only 3 months old and will not last another year. It has a 90 minute working time and I have used it several times and have some good experience with it. It is a ‘Highly flexible and provides a high-strength bond’. For more info Ref www.mcmaster.com/ and under ‘Find Products’ enter ‘3M’. Under it selections will show, choose 3M 2216 Adhesives.

It is hard overnight and ‘reaches full strength in 7 days’. This would provide very good bonding of the wedge with the skins and allow the cleco’s to be removed the next day. I would probably wait several days before riveting.

Has anyone else used something like this and what is your experience and/or thoughts? I am thinking that since I have it and it will go bad probably before I can use all of it up why not use it.


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Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
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VHMUM(at)bigpond.com
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:21 pm    Post subject: Setting trailing edges of control surfaces Reply with quote

Ok this is all in the archives!! But again there is no reason I can think of
except if you want to add weight ......to put any whatever in there!! Vans
say in the manual to use adheasive but some of the engineers disagreed!!
There is no structual need to put any glue there. An engineer at Vans
showed me how to rivet a trailing edge ......The method is a metal plate as
long as the trailing edge to sit the skin on. Put all the rivets in with
some riveters tape. Put a weight on a couple of spots. Start one end and go
to the next. Dead straight!!! Took about 3 min Of riveting!! Again dead
straight. Did both elevators ,Rudder this way and no dramas!!
For those that have put glue in thats great and will be fine I am just
pointing out another way.

Chris 388

---


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n8vim(at)arrl.net
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:32 pm    Post subject: Setting trailing edges of control surfaces Reply with quote

We!! can!! understand!! without!! all!! the!! punctuation!!
(The preceeding was humor!! for the humor-impared!!)
!!

-Jim 40384 (Right bottom wing skins DONE !! !! !!)

do not archive !!

Chris , Susie Darcy wrote:

[quote]
<VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>

Ok this is all in the archives!! But again there is no reason I can
think of except if you want to add weight ......to put any whatever in
there!! Vans say in the manual to use adheasive but some of the
engineers disagreed!! There is no structual need to put any glue
there. An engineer at Vans showed me how to rivet a trailing edge
......The method is a metal plate as long as the trailing edge to sit
the skin on. Put all the rivets in with some riveters tape. Put a
weight on a couple of spots. Start one end and go to the next. Dead
straight!!! Took about 3 min Of riveting!! Again dead straight. Did
both elevators ,Rudder this way and no dramas!!
For those that have put glue in thats great and will be fine I am just
pointing out another way.

Chris 388

---


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VHMUM(at)bigpond.com
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:40 pm    Post subject: Setting trailing edges of control surfaces Reply with quote

Sorry you wont hear another peep out of me

do not archive

Chris 388

---


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n8vim(at)arrl.net
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:56 pm    Post subject: Setting trailing edges of control surfaces Reply with quote

Just yankin your chain Smile

-Jim 40384

Chris , Susie Darcy wrote:

[quote]
<VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>

Sorry you wont hear another peep out of me

do not archive

Chris 388

---


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