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AV8ORJWC
Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"
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 Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 7:59 am Post subject: Work Table Size |
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Michael - in one word....Safety. The PVC can get brittle and burst with
pressure or age. I had PVC for twenty years. The ole line then sprang
a leak. I just ignored it. Shortly thereafter (a few months) the line
splintered and burst into pieces. It was cheap, fast, easy as well as
stupid of me. $1,000 for a commercial compressor then I cut a few
corners in not upgrading the distribution system.
Copper or galvanized steel pipe are favorites. Black pipe for natural
gas is a no-no. Remember that the heat process of compressing air
squeezes moisture out. It is in the tank, in the trap or in the lines.
Pneumatic tools will talk back if the moisture is allowed to reach them.
Remember at least two traps, one at the tank, one at the low point well
down the line and when I paint, the final one before the gun with a
desiccant capture trap to read the results.
And yes... Jesse said "AMEN" which I am sure was so as to beckon someone
of higher authority so your PVC doesn't send a shard into your backside
(wallet) while bending over riveting.
John
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rv10builder(at)verizon.ne
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:17 am Post subject: Work Table Size |
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from http://www.oldsmobility.com/air-compressor-piping.htm
Never use PVC or ABS. (PVC is easy to work with, but will not allow the hot
air to cool quickly enough to condense the water in the compressed air.
Also, in case of a compressor regulator failure, if the PSI inside the line
were to go above the rated safety capacity, the plastic pipe won't just
split, but will actually explode, producing razor-sharp projectiles which
are sure to damage property and person.) Consider using Schedule 40 black
iron, galvanized, copper, stainless steel, or anodized aluminum. Size the
pipe for maximum CFM required. This will equal full load production plus
future expansion plans
Mind you when I looked at this site and saw all the up and downs I thought
this setup was nuts- hence my initial question about what Tim was using. I
wany simple and something that will work and stay dry.
I think for the short distance involved a simple dryer and oiler will be
fine..
Pascal
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jesse(at)itecusa.org
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:23 am Post subject: Work Table Size |
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Yes, and please send a high-res picture of said shard when it hits.
Actually, I would recommend something like PEX, probably. I don't
specifically know how much pressure it will handle, but it isn't brittle.
We use some type of plastic pipe in Ecuador. It's fairly plyable and
thick-walled and is very easy to work with and cheap. If it is going
overhead, it would be a little harder to drop something on it. Beyond that,
do what makes you feel good.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
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apilot2(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:32 am Post subject: Work Table Size |
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I guess the counter to that would be....am I going to use this
distribution line for 20 yrs? I don't think I would keep one for more
than 10 yrs, probably less...but part of that is a function of my age.
Everyone will have a different answer.
On 12/28/06, John W. Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> wrote:
[quote]
Michael - in one word....Safety. The PVC can get brittle and burst with
pressure or age. I had PVC for twenty years. The ole line then sprang
a leak. I just ignored it. Shortly thereafter (a few months) the line
splintered and burst into pieces. It was cheap, fast, easy as well as
stupid of me. $1,000 for a commercial compressor then I cut a few
corners in not upgrading the distribution system.
Copper or galvanized steel pipe are favorites. Black pipe for natural
gas is a no-no. Remember that the heat process of compressing air
squeezes moisture out. It is in the tank, in the trap or in the lines.
Pneumatic tools will talk back if the moisture is allowed to reach them.
Remember at least two traps, one at the tank, one at the low point well
down the line and when I paint, the final one before the gun with a
desiccant capture trap to read the results.
And yes... Jesse said "AMEN" which I am sure was so as to beckon someone
of higher authority so your PVC doesn't send a shard into your backside
(wallet) while bending over riveting.
John
--
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Jerry Grimmonpre'
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 144
Location: Huntley, Illinois 60142
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 10:15 am Post subject: Work Table Size |
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do not archive
My shop is plumbed with 1/2 inch schedule 40 pvc from Menard's. I
pressurize to 165psi and it has held up for several years. The pipe runs
are at the ceilings. I take off every 5' with a T fitting. The T points
to the ceiling and another short pipe goes up a short distance then turns
180° down to where I can reach it when plugging into the quick disconnect.
The 180 pipe helps with drier air by leaving the heavy moisture inside the
main line. The 180 is made with a heat gun as are most other changes of
direction. Seems to work pretty good.
Jerry Grimmonpre'
RV4 flying
RV8 wires
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Rick S.
Joined: 12 Feb 2006
Posts: 347
Location: Las Vegas
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 6:14 pm Post subject: Work Table Size |
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Me too.....good for three years so far...now we are talking about it again...three years after we talked about it before....now we have a word for it...I.E.D.!!!! SHARDS!! SHRAPNEL!!! Death from above!!! Jesse is praying and John is spreading the word!!!
Stuff is rated at 600 PSI....I never go above 90 PSI (why would you??)...that's a 5 (X) times safety factor...need to go check engineering book...Ah..ummm....right here, design a safety factor of 5 times the normal operating condition....so unless your Ab-E-normal....PVC, properly supported and protected from UV damage, should work for your build, if your doing it up for a lifetime in your shop or hangar....go copper....or better yet...stainless steel.
Hump?? What hump??
heheheheeee....."A nation that does not learn from it's history....
Cocktail hour still going....Double hick!!
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
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Rick S.
RV-10
40185 |
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rvbuilder(at)sausen.net
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 6:48 pm Post subject: Work Table Size |
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I wanted to go with nanotubes but the pressure goes waaaay up and the volume waaaay down at that level. I figured that would be the only way to be safe though. Now where's that tequila. Heh
Do not archive
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jhstarn(at)verizon.net
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:44 pm Post subject: Work Table Size |
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NO...stainless would require cutting, fitting & threading to do the job
proper. Have you ever cut stainless steel pipe ? ? I have, when installing
it at the Submarine training school in San Diego. With the push on copper
joints all you need is to cut & fit. Why yes, I have seen PVC glue joints &
90's blow off at a lot less than 90PSI, several times in fact. Shards &
Shrapnel ? ? Yep seen that too, IF PSI rating is your only test for
consideration, ever wonder why they don't run natural gas in Sch 40 PVC.
Yep have seen that done too, job lasted more than 10 years until it came
unglued & burnt the house to the ground.....NO the insurance didn't pay off.
The pipe was "owner" installed & ILLEGAL. It's your nickel, ya take your
pick, pay the price & take your chances.
"Those who will not listen to the sage advise from those that have walked
the path before, will have to learn the hard way". Who said that ? ? I just
did, I do have an original thought every now & then.
Do Not Archive KABONG
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johngoodman
Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA
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| Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 6:59 am Post subject: Re: Work Table Size |
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| rvbuilder(at)sausen.net wrote: | I'm curious. Is there a reason that everyone is using copper and other metal pipe for their air runs? Good ole SCH 40 PVC from just about any hardware store is rated for several times the PSI you will ever see from your compressor. Use half inch PVC and you will be done in half the time at a fraction of the cost.
Michael
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PVC is a no-no. If it ever fails, it will shatter; think of glass. Metal will only rupture. When I was planning my system, I happened to be in a military shop and asked one of the guys about their air system. He happened to be the safety guy and he gave me the whole speech. His recommendation was black iron pipe. There was a reason for not using galvanized but I've forgotten why.
John
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#40572 Phase One complete in 2011 |
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