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kearney(at)shaw.ca
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 Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 8:39 am Post subject: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder |
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Hi
Yesterday, with the help of friend I rolled the leading edge of one of my elevators using the technique in the Van’s docs. I used a 1 ¼” OD pipe to do the rolling. I found that using an edge seamer / hand seamer I was able to eliminate most of the gap between the skins along the rivet line (but not all). I also noted that there is a slight but noticeable high point along the rivet line were the seamers did their thing. This means the pop rivet head is not perfectly flush to the skin on all sides due to the high point.
I suspect there is a better way to eliminate the puckers along the rivet line without causing a high spot. Any suggestions? I would like to do a better job on the rudder and remaining elevator.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
RV10 #40643 – Lost in the empennage
[quote][b]
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Rick S.
Joined: 12 Feb 2006
Posts: 347
Location: Las Vegas
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| Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 11:41 am Post subject: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder |
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Les,
I used a smaller pipe on the overlap skin. It allowed me to get a tighter radius and it overlayed the under skin much better. Try to keep the bend outside of the rivet line, towards the edge, and don't make it to pronounced. It should cleco together and look just as good as if you had rivets holding it together. The less stress to get it together the better.
Rick S.
40185
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Rick S.
RV-10
40185 |
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LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2006 12:53 pm Post subject: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder |
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In a message dated 12/22/2006 11:43:30 AM Eastern Standard Time, kearney(at)shaw.ca writes:
| Quote: | | I used a 1 Ā¼ā€¯ OD pipe to do the rolling. I found that using an edge seamer / hand seamer I was able to eliminate most of the gap between the skins along the rivet line (but not all). |
Good start... keep trying. Over roll it a bit and work it by hand as well. Any area that is bulging is an area that was under curved (not rolled enough). The hand seamer finishes it for a snug fit, but will NOT make up for the under rolling. The hand seam should be the same amount the entire length, dont try to over bend the edge, just go back and roll more, it killed my hands working the metal, but is do able. It takes effort to roll and NOT bend at the edge of the spar... just be persistant and aware of the direction of your forces. Look from the end and eye ball the areas that seem flat.... it is an art, not a science!!!
Steve
do not archive
Stephen Blank #40499 - finishing elevator trim tabs. ( i know... going slow.....)
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell - evenings and weekends
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MChase(at)gdatp.com
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| Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 2:35 pm Post subject: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder |
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Steve,
I used a piece of wood I had left over from putting hanger rods in closets, it was a little over 1" OD, wood and long. I would suggest if you don't have a spare just put your wife's cloths on the bed for a few hours and use the one out of your closet.
Michael Chase
General Dynamics Armament and Technical Products
802-657-6029 Office
802-922-5930 Cell
mchase(at)gdatp.com
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LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com
Sent by: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
12/22/2006 03:52 PM
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To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
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Subject: Re: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder
In a message dated 12/22/2006 11:43:30 AM Eastern Standard Time, kearney(at)shaw.ca writes:
I used a 1 ¼” OD pipe to do the rolling. I found that using an edge seamer / hand seamer I was able to eliminate most of the gap between the skins along the rivet line (but not all).
Good start... keep trying. Over roll it a bit and work it by hand as well. Any area that is bulging is an area that was under curved (not rolled enough). The hand seamer finishes it for a snug fit, but will NOT make up for the under rolling. The hand seam should be the same amount the entire length, dont try to over bend the edge, just go back and roll more, it killed my hands working the metal, but is do able. It takes effort to roll and NOT bend at the edge of the spar... just be persistant and aware of the direction of your forces. Look from the end and eye ball the areas that seem flat.... it is an art, not a science!!!
Steve
do not archive
Stephen Blank #40499 - finishing elevator trim tabs. ( i know... going slow.....)
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell - evenings and weekends
???~??,
[quote][b]
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Jon Reining
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 37
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| Posted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 7:53 am Post subject: Re: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder |
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Les - I used some 1" OD steel pipe and match drilled holes in the pipe and then clecoed the skin to the pipe - it worked great.
Jon Reining (with my dad Bill)
41514 - tailcone - still (need to get finished with this house remodel)
do not archive
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kearney(at)shaw.ca
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| Posted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:41 am Post subject: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder |
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Hmmm,
Now that sounds like a wonderfully simple idea. I found with the smaller diameter pipe and bending the edge after the rivet line made things easier.
It seems that there is a lot of stress on the holes as they are being clecoed and match drilled. I wonder if a better solution (and less stressful to the holes) would be to:
1. Drill the holes to size prior to rolling the edges
2. De-burr the holes
3. Bend the edges as required
4. Roll the edges
5. Clecoe the edges together
6. Install the Pop rivets
I wonder if this would cause less deformation in the holes than assembly, disassembly and then reassembly.
Cheers
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 – Lost in the empennage.
--
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marchudson(at)comcast.net
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| Posted: Sat Jan 06, 2007 7:01 am Post subject: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder |
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Les
I used a 1" wood rod also. It was an industrial broom handle. I didn't the skin to it though. Instead, I used duct tape
and over rolled it just a bit. Worked out great.
Marc Hudson
560
On Jan 5, 2007, at 11:40 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
[quote]
Hmmm,
Now that sounds like a wonderfully simple idea. I found with the smaller diameter pipe and bending the edge after the rivet line made things easier.
It seems that there is a lot of stress on the holes as they are being clecoed and match drilled. I wonder if a better solution (and less stressful to the holes) would be to:
1. Drill the holes to size prior to rolling the edges
2. De-burr the holes
3. Bend the edges as required
4. Roll the edges
5. Clecoe the edges together
6. Install the Pop rivets
I wonder if this would cause less deformation in the holes than assembly, disassembly and then reassembly.
Cheers
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 – Lost in the empennage.
--
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jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.c
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| Posted: Sat Jan 06, 2007 11:13 am Post subject: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder |
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Large broomstick and duck tape worked great. Used Vise Grips to turn rod.
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
FWF, engine, wiring
do not archive
--
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MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
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| Posted: Sat Jan 06, 2007 2:45 pm Post subject: Rolling the leading edges of the elevator & rudder |
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I am about to roll my elevator leading edges. I "helped" Jacob down in
Griffin do the rudder using a wooden rod and duct tape. He's done more
than a few and we did it in a bit of a rush because I was ready to
leave. It turned out perfectly.
He suggested I take notes on what he uses for RV10 elevators.
For the inboard section - a 1" X 27" dowel
For the middle section - 1" x29"
outboard = 1" x 11"
He was very picky about the brand of duct tape (i.e. good quality but
don't have a name). Lot's of careful pressing and smoothing to insure
uniform adhesion.
Bill "2 hours of riveting away from prosealing the elevator trailing
edge and rolling the leading edge once I find a 1" wood rod" Watson
Marc & Kathy wrote:
[quote] Les
I used a 1" wood rod also. It was an industrial broom handle. I
didn't the skin to it though. Instead, I used duct tape
and over rolled it just a bit. Worked out great.
Marc Hudson
560
On Jan 5, 2007, at 11:40 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
> Hmmm,
>
>
>
> Now that sounds like a wonderfully simple idea. I found with the
> smaller diameter pipe and bending the edge after the rivet line made
> things easier.
>
>
>
> It seems that there is a lot of stress on the holes as they are being
> clecoed and match drilled. I wonder if a better solution (and less
> stressful to the holes) would be to:
>
>
>
> 1. Drill the holes to size prior to rolling the edges
>
> 2. De-burr the holes
>
> 3. Bend the edges as required
>
> 4. Roll the edges
>
> 5. Clecoe the edges together
>
> 6. Install the Pop rivets
>
>
>
> I wonder if this would cause less deformation in the holes than
> assembly, disassembly and then reassembly.
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
> RV10 # 40643 – Lost in the empennage.
>
>
>
> --
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