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SilPruf Window Installation (Here goes...)

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Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.co
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 11:52 am Post subject: SilPruf Window Installation (Here goes...)

The rear and door windows in N921AC are installed with an adhesive called

SilPruf.  It's very thick (viscous) silicone material from GE.

(http://kbam.geampod.com/KBAM/Reflection/Assets/10412_3.pdf).  SilPruf comes

in several colors and is avialable from 



The advantages to this method over Weld On are that it leaves a nice looking

trim ring around the exterior of the window, it prevents the cracking along

the edge of the bond, and it would allow for the windows to be removed and

replaced in the future without repainting the area around the window.  BUT

it's a bit of work.



We learned this technique from the GlaStar community.  It's a little

involved and it takes several curing cycles, but the results are really

nice.  AirLInk has a video describing the process:



http://mall.igfarm.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=airlinktech&

Product_Code=101-0101-0000 



My description is a bit rushed and I may have left part of it out.  Please

proofread it and let me know so we have a good record of the process.  It's

a logical process and if something is missing I think you'll realize it.  I

wish I had some pictures but I hope the video will help.  One pointer here:

the video references a completely separate, alternative method using vinyl

ester resin.  Vinyl ester will not bond well to the top or doors of the

RV-10.  You could just substitute epoxy for vinyl ester if you decide the

SilPruf is too much work.



Please get in touch if I can clarify this.  I suspect there will be some

questions.



Here are the steps we followed.  I haven't watched the video lately so the

order may be a little different:



1)	Mask the outside of the window.  No sealant ever touches the outside

surface.  Trim the window to the airframe so it has a 1/8" gap between the

window and the OD of the joggle.



2)	Mask the inside of the window except for the edge.  Leave an

unmasked margin 1/16" wider than the edge of the joggle.  Apply another

layer of thin masking tape (we used fine line tape from an autobody store)

to the edge of the margin.  This layer will be removed before the material

cures.



3)	Prep the unmasked surface lightly with a cloth moistened with

acetone to clean and degrease it.



4)	Apply a very thin layer of SilPruf to the unmasked margin.  The

purpose of this step is to create the cosmetic "mask" that is seen from the

outside.  Remove the fine line tape.  Let the mask cure for 24 hours

minimum.



5)	While the mask is curing, lay out a bead about 18" long by 1/4"

diameter of SilPruf on some wax paper.  It will be used later in the

process.  It doesn't have to be particularly uniform-just a line of SilPruf.



6)	Trial fit the window into the joggle.  Drill #40 cleco holes every

2" into the bottom of the groove between the window and the OD of the

joggle.



7)	Make a bunch of wooden spacers out of inch-long of popsicle stick or

similar.  Drill a #40 hole in the middle of each spacer.  Use the spacers

under a cleco to clamp the window into the joggle.  At this point the window

will be "below grade" of the outside skin.



	Now cut the bead of SilPruf into thin wafers and shim the window out

so it is at or slightly above grade.  Place one wafer approximately at each

cleco under the cosmetic mask.  The wood strips will bridge from the fuse to

the window, and the cleco should apply enough pressure to slightly compress

each wafer.  You will vary the thickness of each wafer to get the window

flush with the outer skin.  Prep the joggle, then glue the wafers to the

joggle with SilPruf and let them cure.  They have to be firmly affixed so

that they stay in place during the final installation.  If they slip around,

the window will fall below grade and all the sealant will get squeezed out

by the cleco pressure.



9)	Mask the inside and outside of the fuselage and apply another fine

line mask to the inside of the window.



10)	  Apply the SilPruf to the joggle, all around the wafers.  Be

careful not to break the wafers off.



11)	  Put the window back in place and secure it with the clecos and

wood strips.  Scoop as much as possible out of the groove between the

window and the joggle.  Some material will remain under the wooden spacers.

Those sections will be removed later.



12)	  Remove the fine line mask from the inside.  Let the whole thing

cure for at least 24 hours.



13)	  Remove all the masking from the inside, and clean up any drips.

If you catch them before they cure, that's even better.



14)	  Remove the clecos and strips.  Remove the SilPruf from the area

under the strips with a pick, knife, chisel, whatever works.  There should

be a nice uniform groove between the edge of the window and the airframe.

Kind of a little moat.



15)	  Fast forward to final painting of the plane.  Paint the body color

right up to the edge of the groove, then paint over that with a very thin

line of glossy paint that matches the color of the SilPruf.  Ours is black,

about 1/16" to 1/8" outboard of the OD of the joggle.



16)	  Then mask halfway onto the glossy paint and the entire plastic

outer surface of the window.  Apply a bead of SilPruf into the groove to

fill it up.  Smooth it up with a squeegee or your favorite technique, then

remove all the masking tape before the SilPruf cures.



That should do it.  Fire away.



Dave Saylor

AirCrafters LLC

140 Aviation Way

Watsonville, CA 

831-722-9141

831-750-0284 CL

www.AirCraftersLLC.com





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Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 3:15 pm Post subject: SilPruf Window Installation (Here goes...)

Dave,



Have you compared the holding power of SilPruf to that of WeldOn? 



Thanks,



Tim



-- 

Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)

RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs

RV-10 #40059 under construction



Dave Saylor wrote:

[quote] 



  The rear and door windows in N921AC are installed with an adhesive called

 SilPruf.  It's very thick (viscous) silicone material from GE.

 (http://kbam.geampod.com/KBAM/Reflection/Assets/10412_3.pdf).  SilPruf comes

 in several colors and is avialable from 



 The advantages to this method over Weld On are that it leaves a nice looking

 trim ring around the exterior of the window, it prevents the cracking along

 the edge of the bond, and it would allow for the windows to be removed and

 replaced in the future without repainting the area around the window.  BUT

 it's a bit of work.



 We learned this technique from the GlaStar community.  It's a little

 involved and it takes several curing cycles, but the results are really

 nice.  AirLInk has a video describing the process:



 http://mall.igfarm.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=airlinktech&

 Product_Code=101-0101-0000 



 My description is a bit rushed and I may have left part of it out.  Please

 proofread it and let me know so we have a good record of the process.  It's

 a logical process and if something is missing I think you'll realize it.  I

 wish I had some pictures but I hope the video will help.  One pointer here:

 the video references a completely separate, alternative method using vinyl

 ester resin.  Vinyl ester will not bond well to the top or doors of the

 RV-10.  You could just substitute epoxy for vinyl ester if you decide the

 SilPruf is too much work.



 Please get in touch if I can clarify this.  I suspect there will be some

 questions.



 Here are the steps we followed.  I haven't watched the video lately so the

 order may be a little different:



 1)	Mask the outside of the window.  No sealant ever touches the outside

 surface.  Trim the window to the airframe so it has a 1/8" gap between the

 window and the OD of the joggle.



 2)	Mask the inside of the window except for the edge.  Leave an

 unmasked margin 1/16" wider than the edge of the joggle.  Apply another

 layer of thin masking tape (we used fine line tape from an autobody store)

 to the edge of the margin.  This layer will be removed before the material

 cures.



 3)	Prep the unmasked surface lightly with a cloth moistened with

 acetone to clean and degrease it.



 4)	Apply a very thin layer of SilPruf to the unmasked margin.  The

 purpose of this step is to create the cosmetic "mask" that is seen from the

 outside.  Remove the fine line tape.  Let the mask cure for 24 hours

 minimum.



 5)	While the mask is curing, lay out a bead about 18" long by 1/4"

 diameter of SilPruf on some wax paper.  It will be used later in the

 process.  It doesn't have to be particularly uniform-just a line of SilPruf.



 6)	Trial fit the window into the joggle.  Drill #40 cleco holes every

 2" into the bottom of the groove between the window and the OD of the

 joggle.



 7)	Make a bunch of wooden spacers out of inch-long of popsicle stick or

 similar.  Drill a #40 hole in the middle of each spacer.  Use the spacers

 under a cleco to clamp the window into the joggle.  At this point the window

 will be "below grade" of the outside skin.



 	Now cut the bead of SilPruf into thin wafers and shim the window out

 so it is at or slightly above grade.  Place one wafer approximately at each

 cleco under the cosmetic mask.  The wood strips will bridge from the fuse to

 the window, and the cleco should apply enough pressure to slightly compress

 each wafer.  You will vary the thickness of each wafer to get the window

 flush with the outer skin.  Prep the joggle, then glue the wafers to the

 joggle with SilPruf and let them cure.  They have to be firmly affixed so

 that they stay in place during the final installation.  If they slip around,

 the window will fall below grade and all the sealant will get squeezed out

 by the cleco pressure.



 9)	Mask the inside and outside of the fuselage and apply another fine

 line mask to the inside of the window.



 10)	  Apply the SilPruf to the joggle, all around the wafers.  Be

 careful not to break the wafers off.



 11)	  Put the window back in place and secure it with the clecos and

 wood strips.  Scoop as much as possible out of the groove between the

 window and the joggle.  Some material will remain under the wooden spacers.

 Those sections will be removed later.



 12)	  Remove the fine line mask from the inside.  Let the whole thing

 cure for at least 24 hours.



 13)	  Remove all the masking from the inside, and clean up any drips.

 If you catch them before they cure, that's even better.



 14)	  Remove the clecos and strips.  Remove the SilPruf from the area

 under the strips with a pick, knife, chisel, whatever works.  There should

 be a nice uniform groove between the edge of the window and the airframe.

 Kind of a little moat.



 15)	  Fast forward to final painting of the plane.  Paint the body color

 right up to the edge of the groove, then paint over that with a very thin

 line of glossy paint that matches the color of the SilPruf.  Ours is black,

 about 1/16" to 1/8" outboard of the OD of the joggle.



 16)	  Then mask halfway onto the glossy paint and the entire plastic

 outer surface of the window.  Apply a bead of SilPruf into the groove to

 fill it up.  Smooth it up with a squeegee or your favorite technique, then

 remove all the masking tape before the SilPruf cures.



 That should do it.  Fire away.



 Dave Saylor

 AirCrafters LLC

 140 Aviation Way

 Watsonville, CA 

 831-722-9141

 831-750-0284 CL

 www.AirCraftersLLC.com





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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.co
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 3:59 pm Post subject: SilPruf Window Installation (Here goes...)

Nope.  But I have seen it work very well in many other applications besides

this one.  The numbers say it would take a catastrophe to break the

bond--thousands of pounds loading against the window--at which point the

strength of the bond becomes a moot point.  So, no, I haven't checked, but I

still I trust the application.



Also, it's a bit of an apples/oranges comparison because the SilPruf

stretches so much further before breaking.  That's what makes it nice for

preventing the hairline cracks.



Dave Saylor

AirCrafters LLC

140 Aviation Way

Watsonville, CA 

831-722-9141

831-750-0284 CL

www.AirCraftersLLC.com

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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

kearney(at)shaw.ca
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 7:20 am Post subject: SilPruf Window Installation (Here goes...)

Dave



Many thanks for such a detailed post. Where I live it can go from -40F in

winter to +90F in summer. Thermal expansion of joints around windows etc is

an issue that I have been concerned about.



On the strength of your recommendation, I have ordered the video and hope to

put it to good use.



Regards



Les Kearney

#40643

C-GCWZ (Reserved)



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patrick.pulis(at)seagas.c
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 5:01 pm Post subject: SilPruf Window Installation (Here goes...)

Les, once you view the video, could you please post a overview of the

installation process and your thoughts please?



Regards



Patrick Pulis

#40299  VH-XPP

Adelaide, South Australia



DO NOT ARCHIVE 



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kearney(at)shaw.ca
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 8:48 pm Post subject: SilPruf Window Installation (Here goes...)

Patrick



Hi from the northern end of the Commonwealth!



I know next to nothing about composites, but am trying to learn. I'll

certainly pass on comments etc once I have seen the video.



Cheers



Les Kearney

#450643

C-GXWZ (reserved)



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