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Air box and alternate air door

 
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dlm46007(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 10, 2008 8:44 pm    Post subject: Air box and alternate air door Reply with quote

Just pulled the cowl for first 100 hours inspection. Found the galvanized ring (VA192A) of the alternate air door partially pulled from the bottom of the air box. the rivets had pulled through the glass and the nut plate for the door pivot was holding it there. To fix this I fabricated an aluminum ring for the inside and match drilled the ring and galvanized ring. I cleaned the bottom with a scotchbrite pad and grinder and put two additional layers of glass on the bottom. I will epoxy putty the VA192A and the fabricated ring to the box and rivet (1097s) after cure. I will then add small dabs of RTV on the rivet buck tails on the inside to ensure that even if a rivet breaks, nothing will enter the injection system.
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danbenua(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 4:53 pm    Post subject: Air box and alternate air door Reply with quote

I had the exact same failure on my RV-6A two years ago. In my
case, some pop-rivet mandrels were ingested by the engine
causing brief roughness, but no permanent damage. I complained
to Van’s engineering about the design, but they were not interested.
David’s fix, using a backing ring and solid aluminum rivets, is just what
I did to repair my 6A and what I installed on my RV-10. In my opinion
there should be a Service Bulletin (and design change) on this
alternate air door. Maybe Tim could add the issue to his web page.

- Dan Benua
#40001 - Flying

Quote:
Just pulled the cowl for first 100 hours inspection. Found the galvanized
ring (VA192A) of the alternate air door partially pulled from the bottom of
the air box. the rivets had pulled through the glass and the nut plate for
the door pivot was holding it there. To fix this I fabricated an aluminum
ring for the inside and match drilled the ring and galvanized ring. I
cleaned the bottom with a scotchbrite pad and grinder and put two additional
layers of glass on the bottom. I will epoxy putty the VA192A and the
fabricated ring to the box and rivet (1097s) after cure. I will then add
small dabs of RTV on the rivet buck tails on the inside to ensure that even
if a rivet breaks, nothing will enter the injection system.


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gengrumpy(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 4:56 pm    Post subject: Air box and alternate air door Reply with quote

Dave, any pictures you can post for the rest of us.

grumpy
N184JM





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dlm46007(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 7:53 pm    Post subject: Air box and alternate air door Reply with quote

unfortunately no; I did not have my camera there when I finished and replaced the cowl. It is just a doubler ring of .062 aluminum I believe the inner diameter was 2.25" and the outer was 4". Just a reminder that any where rivets, solids or blinds, are to be set in fiberglass the buck tail side should have a metal washer /doubler/CS washer to spread the compression load. This goes for the CS screws holding the seatbelt anchors; the lid perimeter and the fiberglass elevator tips etc.. On my elevator tips I used small stainless flat washers that the blind would be seated in when riveting the tips in place. that way it will be difficult for the blind rivets holding the tips in place to pull through due to vibration.

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gengrumpy(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 5:56 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Air box and alternate air door

Dave, any pictures you can post for the rest of us.

grumpy
N184JM





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