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Air box and alternate air door

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dlm46007(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2008 8:44 pm Post subject: Air box and alternate air door

Just pulled  the cowl for first 100 hours inspection. Found the galvanized ring (VA192A)  of the alternate air door partially pulled from the bottom of the air box. the  rivets had pulled through the glass and the nut plate for the door pivot was  holding it there. To fix this I fabricated an aluminum ring for the inside and  match drilled the ring and galvanized ring. I cleaned the bottom with a scotchbrite pad and  grinder and put two additional layers of glass on the bottom. I will epoxy putty  the VA192A and the fabricated ring to the box and rivet (1097s) after cure. I  will then add small dabs of RTV on the rivet buck tails on the inside to ensure  that even if a rivet breaks, nothing will enter the injection  system.

   [quote][b]

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danbenua(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 4:53 pm Post subject: Air box and alternate air door

I had the exact same failure on my RV-6A two years ago.  In my

case, some pop-rivet mandrels were ingested by the engine

causing brief roughness, but no permanent damage.  I complained

to Van’s engineering about the design, but they were not interested.

David’s fix, using a backing ring and solid aluminum rivets, is just what

I did to repair my 6A and what I installed on my RV-10.  In my opinion

there should be a Service Bulletin (and design change) on this

alternate air door.  Maybe Tim could add the issue to his web page.



- Dan Benua

#40001 - Flying



 	  Quote: 	
		    Just pulled the cowl for first 100 hours inspection. Found the galvanized

     ring (VA192A) of the alternate air door partially pulled from the bottom of

      the air box. the rivets had pulled through the glass and the nut plate for

      the door pivot was holding it there. To fix this I fabricated an aluminum

      ring for the inside and match drilled the ring and galvanized ring. I

      cleaned the bottom with a scotchbrite pad and grinder and put two additional

      layers of glass on the bottom. I will epoxy putty the VA192A and the

      fabricated ring to the box and rivet (1097s) after cure. I will then add

      small dabs of RTV on the rivet buck tails on the inside to ensure that even

      if a rivet breaks, nothing will enter the injection system.

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gengrumpy(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 4:56 pm Post subject: Air box and alternate air door

Dave, any pictures you can post for the rest of us.  

 

 grumpy

 N184JM

 

   

 

   

 

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dlm46007(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 7:53 pm Post subject: Air box and alternate air door

unfortunately no; I did not have my camera there when I  finished and replaced the cowl. It is just a doubler ring of .062 aluminum I  believe the inner diameter was 2.25" and the outer was 4". Just a reminder that  any where rivets, solids or blinds, are to be set in fiberglass the buck tail  side should have a metal washer /doubler/CS washer to spread the compression  load. This goes for the CS screws holding the seatbelt anchors; the lid  perimeter and the fiberglass elevator tips etc.. On my elevator tips I used  small stainless flat washers that the blind would be seated in when riveting the  tips in place. that way it will be difficult for the blind rivets holding the  tips in place to pull through due to vibration.

   From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com  [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of  gengrumpy(at)aol.com

Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 5:56  PM

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: Air  box and alternate air door

 Dave, any pictures you can post  for the rest of us.  

grumpy

N184JM

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