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f.kyle(at)sympatico.ca
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 Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 7:28 pm Post subject: DOT4 and filling the monowheel brake line |
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Cheers,
I am having the worst time trying to force the fluid up into the brake system from the bleed valve on the main wheel. We opened the
upper fill plug to relieve what we thought to be any resistance and with a syringe attempted to fill the various parts.
First of all the syringes leaked somewhat and we did our best to press fluid into the wheel portion but after 250 ml, and much huffing and puffing, have seen little result above, even though we induced a vacuum from the top to expedite matters..
Any hints or kinks as to a more perfect procedure? All ideas accepted at par.
Thanks, Ferg
[quote][b]
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JonSmith
Joined: 21 May 2010
Posts: 110
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| Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 9:21 pm Post subject: Re: DOT4 and filling the monowheel brake line |
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I used an empty plastic washing up liquid bottle filled with brake fluid, connected with plastic hose. The nozzle of the bottle is similar size to that of the bleed nipple. I wire locked the hose on each end to ensure it couldn't possibly slip off. You have to squeeze like mad but it works! I suspect a syringe might not be man-enough for the job?
(Obviously take the top filler screw out and if you have the factory supplied small metal funnel to screw in that avoids any mess at all)
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G-TERN
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neveyre(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 10:34 pm Post subject: DOT4 and filling the monowheel brake line |
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Hi Ferg,
Large syringe [ from a Vet ?], length of model aircraft silicone fuel tube, 1/4'' spanner, plastic bag and either the Europa screw in funnel, or a nozzle from a silicone sealant cartridge..........
Cover the caliper with the plastic bag, piercing it through the nipple [ to keep fluid off the pads ]
Fit the tube on the syringe, fill the syringe and purge the air out to the open end of the tube, fit onto nipple.
With the Europa funnel or nozzle fitted to the bung hole in the master cylinder, open the nipple a turn or turn and a half and squeeze the fluid up, it has taken me longer to type this than it should take to do it !
Have a helper to watch for the funnel filling up, when fluid is in the funnel, tighten up the caliper nipple.
Slowly pump the master cylinder to it's full travel a number of times, air trapped in the cylinder will come up through the fluid in the funnel [ raise the tail will help here ?]
When all air has gone, suck out the fluid from the funnel so the fluid is level with the thread, replace the bung..... job done
Cheers,
Nev
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max8992
Joined: 28 Jul 2011
Posts: 142
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| Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 11:27 pm Post subject: DOT4 and filling the monowheel brake line |
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Hi There,
You need to push the liquid with a syringe from each brake through the purge bolt until it goes out of each master cylinder. To avoid having liquid falls everywhere you need to connect a special bolt on which you connect a pipe and get the exceeding in a bottle.
Max Cointe
mcointe(at)free.fr (mcointe(at)free.fr)
F-PMLH Europa XS_TriGear
Kit #560-2003 912ULS/AirmasterAP332 490 hours
F-PLDJ Dyn’Aéro MCR 4S
Kit #27-2002 912ULSFR/MTProp MTV7A 1600 heures
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de f.kyle(at)sympatico.ca
Envoyé : vendredi 4 octobre 2013 05:29
À : 5EUROPALIST
Objet : DOT4 and filling the monowheel brake line
Cheers,
I am having the worst time trying to force the fluid up into the brake system from the bleed valve on the main wheel. We opened the
upper fill plug to relieve what we thought to be any resistance and with a syringe attempted to fill the various parts.
First of all the syringes leaked somewhat and we did our best to press fluid into the wheel portion but after 250 ml, and much huffing and puffing, have seen little result above, even though we induced a vacuum from the top to expedite matters..
Any hints or kinks as to a more perfect procedure? All ideas accepted at par.
Thanks, Ferg | Quote: | | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List |
0123456789
[quote][b]
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Max8992
Europa XS #560 F-PMLH |
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Remi Guerner
Joined: 14 Dec 2010
Posts: 284
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| Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 11:59 pm Post subject: Re: DOT4 and filling the monowheel brake line |
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<<<<air>>>>
I found it was critical to raise the tail as high as possible, say 1.5 meters (be careful not to damage your prop) so that the master cylinder is almost horizontal.
Remi
F-PGKL
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neveyre(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 10:40 am Post subject: DOT4 and filling the monowheel brake line |
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Hi Ferg
Had another think about this today, if you can't get any fluid to flow uphill, the caliper piston might be backed up tight in the housing, which will block the flow.
As it will have been sitting around for a while [ how long Ferg ?] warm the caliper with a fan heater, just so it is warm to the touch [ to help un gum the seal] and remove the bleed nipple and give it a shot of compressed air to shift the piston out to the disc.
Then the fluid will pass through the caliper with barely any effort.
Cheers,
Nev
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nigel_graham(at)m-tecque.
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| Posted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 11:58 pm Post subject: DOT4 and filling the monowheel brake line |
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Hi Ferg,
I was about to respond when Nev replied with the same suggestion.
I have recently worked on two XS Mono kits that have been well stored (warm and dry) for the last twelve years.
As a matter of course, I strip and inspect all components before assembling and on both I found that the brake slave cylinder pistons were stuck fast.
Using a compressed air line to pop them out, I discovered that both were covered in a glutinous substance (see Picture).
I am not sure what this is but would hazard a guess that it is old hydraulic fluid that would have been used to lubricate the piston during manufacture and being hygroscopic, has absorbed water over the years and degraded.
I would suggest dismantling all of your hydraulic components and carefully cleaning and reassembling with fresh hydraulic fluid. I pretty sure that you will then be able to bleed the system as described by others.
As an aside, I am certain that this is the cause of high brake disc and pad wear with associated hot discs that other mono pilots have complained about over the years.
If you intend to keep the aircraft and have a desire to reduce subsequent maintenance, I would also highly recommend having all the components anodised. I have done this to mine and can send picture offline if you are interested.
Nigel
On 04/10/2013 04:29, f.kyle(at)sympatico.ca (f.kyle(at)sympatico.ca) wrote:
| Quote: | <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
Cheers,
I am having the worst time trying to force the fluid up into the brake system from the bleed valve on the main wheel. We opened the
upper fill plug to relieve what we thought to be any resistance and with a syringe attempted to fill the various parts.
First of all the syringes leaked somewhat and we did our best to press fluid into the wheel portion but after 250 ml, and much huffing and puffing, have seen little result above, even though we induced a vacuum from the top to expedite matters..
Any hints or kinks as to a more perfect procedure? All ideas accepted at par.
Thanks, Ferg
|
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europa471
Joined: 08 Apr 2009
Posts: 35
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| Posted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 3:14 am Post subject: DOT4 and filling the monowheel brake line |
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On 05/10/13 17:58, Nigel Graham wrote:
Ferg,
I had an experience similar to Nigel. My unit had been stored for a similar time.
After soaking in various fluids for several weeks, using heat and compressed air to no avail, I ¨borrowed¨ the hand pump from a hydraulic press which finally shifted to piston.
The piston was dry and so badly corroded I turned up a new one, also adding concentric grooves to the rear face to allow fluid easier access to the piston when fully retracted. The bore of the cylinder I was able to salvage.
Regards
Lance Sandford
[quote]Hi Ferg,
I was about to respond when Nev replied with the same suggestion.
I have recently worked on two XS Mono kits that have been well stored (warm and dry) for the last twelve years.
As a matter of course, I strip and inspect all components before assembling and on both I found that the brake slave cylinder pistons were stuck fast.
Using a compressed air line to pop them out, I discovered that both were covered in a glutinous substance (see Picture).
I am not sure what this is but would hazard a guess that it is old hydraulic fluid that would have been used to lubricate the piston during manufacture and being hygroscopic, has absorbed water over the years and degraded.
I would suggest dismantling all of your hydraulic components and carefully cleaning and reassembling with fresh hydraulic fluid. I pretty sure that you will then be able to bleed the system as described by others.
As an aside, I am certain that this is the cause of high brake disc and pad wear with associated hot discs that other mono pilots have complained about over the years.
If you intend to keep the aircraft and have a desire to reduce subsequent maintenance, I would also highly recommend having all the components anodised. I have done this to mine and can send picture offline if you are interested.
Nigel
On 04/10/2013 04:29, f.kyle(at)sympatico.ca (f.kyle(at)sympatico.ca) wrote:
| Quote: | <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
Cheers,
I am having the worst time trying to force the fluid up into the brake system from the bleed valve on the main wheel. We opened the
upper fill plug to relieve what we thought to be any resistance and with a syringe attempted to fill the various parts.
First of all the syringes leaked somewhat and we did our best to press fluid into the wheel portion but after 250 ml, and much huffing and puffing, have seen little result above, even though we induced a vacuum from the top to expedite matters..
Any hints or kinks as to a more perfect procedure? All ideas accepted at par.
Thanks, Ferg
|
[b]
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