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Pipe for bending leading edge

 
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leinad



Joined: 19 Sep 2006
Posts: 283
Location: Central Virginia

PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 11:37 am    Post subject: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

Well I've waited long enough, it's time to get on with the wings.
I have a few questions. The drawing calls for a 1 3/8" diameter tube for bending the leading edge. I'm thinking of using the vacuum method, and this will likely be either next weekend, or within a few weeks.
Does PVC pipe have adequate rigidity? Are 12 foot lengths commonly available? If not PVC I'm concerned as to what I'm going to do with a 12 foot length of steel pipe once I'm done. This is a scratch build, so please don't tell me they come pre-bent.
Dan Dempsey


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lwinger



Joined: 21 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 12:00 pm    Post subject: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

Dan,

Check out http://www.ch601.org/resources/Nose%20Skin/bending_a_nose_skin.htm. I used this method, with my worktable as bending brake, and it worked great.

Good luck. Follow the directions on their site and you'll have no problems.

Larry Winger
650/Corvair
Scratch building
Fuselage 98% complete
On Sat, Jan 24, 2009 at 11:37 AM, leinad <leinad(at)hughes.net (leinad(at)hughes.net)> wrote:
[quote]--> Zenith-List message posted by: "leinad" <leinad(at)hughes.net (leinad(at)hughes.net)>

Well I've waited long enough, it's time to get on with the wings.
I have a few questions. The drawing calls for a 1 3/8" diameter tube for bending the leading edge. I'm thinking of using the vacuum method, and this will likely be either next weekend, or within a few weeks.
Does PVC pipe have adequate rigidity? Are 12 foot lengths commonly available? If not PVC I'm concerned as to what I'm going to do with a 12 foot length of steel pipe once I'm done. This is a scratch build, so please don't tell me they come pre-bent.
Dan Dempsey

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kmccune



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 2:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

After trying to get help from the teenage children and trashing two pieces of .016" due to total lack of interest on their part Shocked . I did something close to this, but I cut mine over size by 3 inches and trimmed to fit after. This allowed me to screw the boards to the trailing edge and not worry about being square. This was for the stab and elevator and not the wing.
I would think it would work for the wing, but I have not been there yet.
Kevin


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leinad



Joined: 19 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 7:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

Wade,
That's the method I was going to use, but what type of pipe did you use? Is it PVC? Do you think PVC would work?
Dan

wjones(at)brazoriainet.co wrote:
Hey Dan ,I had good results using this method. Wade Jones � � � � �

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 8:46 pm    Post subject: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

You have to use gas pipe or galvanized pipe PVC would flex

Jeff

Is it PVC? Do you think PVC would work?


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Ron Lendon



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 685
Location: Clinton Twp., MI

PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 9:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

lwinger wrote:
Dan,

Check out http://www.ch601.org/resources/Nose%20Skin/bending_a_nose_skin.htm. I used this method, with my worktable as bending brake, and it worked great.

Good luck. Follow the directions on their site and you'll have no problems.

Larry Winger
650/Corvair
Scratch building
Fuselage 98% complete
[b]


Dan, Ditto on what Larry said. I did the bending solo on top of my table. That's one of the things I like about this design, one guy can do most of the work.

If you are going the vacuum route I would imagine rigidity and straightness of the tube will be important. Also you will need to keep the tube aligned to the skin during the process.


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William Dominguez



Joined: 09 Apr 2008
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 6:33 am    Post subject: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

I remember seeing a video in youtube with some guys bending the nose skin for a Sonex. If I remember correctly, they used a PVC tube. I don't find the video right now but if I find it, I'll post the link.

I have considered the table method described in CH601.org but my table is very heavy and have lot of things stored in it, my floor is not perfectly flat and my workshop does not provide enough clearance to easily turn the table upside down. I'll be using the vacuum method as well.

William Dominguez
Zodiac 601XL Plans
Miami Florida
http://www.geocities.com/bill_dom

--- On Sat, 1/24/09, leinad <leinad(at)hughes.net> wrote:
Quote:
From: leinad <leinad(at)hughes.net>
Subject: Re: Pipe for bending leading edge
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, January 24, 2009, 10:11 PM

Quote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "leinad"<leinad(at)hughes.net>Wade,That's the method I was going to use, but what type of pipe did you use? Is it PVC? Do you think PVC would work?Danwjones(at)brazoriainet.co wrote:> Hey Dan ,I had good results using this method. Wade Jones � � � � � > > Note: or receiving certain types of file attachments. Check your e-mailsecurity--------Scratch building XL with Corvair EngineRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=226625#226625Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_2528_2_174.jpg< -->
[quote][b]


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leinad



Joined: 19 Sep 2006
Posts: 283
Location: Central Virginia

PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:18 am    Post subject: Re: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

William,
I've seen the video. It has been awhile, but I remember it differently. I thought they were using a steel pipe.
Ron is great proponent of the table top bending jig method, and I'm sure it can work and do a good job. I'm looking at using the vacuum method for a couple of reason, maybe not good ones, but here they are. I used the table top method with the stabelizer leading edge and the results weren't so good. There is slight, and if I pointed it out to you you'd notice it, curve to the leading edge. It results in the middle being higher than the tips. It's installed on the plane now, but I think I'm going to remake that part. Also I made my table in 2 sections, one 8 foot long the other 4 foot long. Third, it seams like you'd have better control with the vacuum, you could apply it slowly and not feel like you're wrestling with it.
Here's my thinking on not needing a rigid tube. It should be similar to folding a sheet of paper which can result in a perfectly straight line with out any guide at all. I think all one should have to do is draw a straight line on the material. Place the tube on that line, and hold it in place with a few pieces of duct tape. The force of the vacuum is going to be very constant along the entire length of the bend. This is complete conjectures on my part. Jeff has already spoken up and said the tube must be rigid. Jeff was this from experience from vacuum forming using PVC, or your best guess?
Short of any replies based on real experience I may purchase some aluminum flashing and try a scaled down test, perhaps using something really flimsy as radius guide.
Dan

[quote="William Dominguez"]I remember seeing a video in youtube with some guys bending the nose skin for a Sonex. If I remember correctly, they used a PVC tube. I don't find the video right now but if I find it, I'll post the link.

I have considered the table method described in CH601.org but my table is very heavy and have lot of things stored in it, my floor is not perfectly flat and my workshop does not provide enough clearance to easily turn the table upside down. I'll be using the vacuum method as well.

William Dominguez
Zodiac 601XL Plans
Miami Florida
http://www.geocities.com/bill_dom

--- On Sat, 1/24/09, leinad <leinad> wrote:
Quote:
From: leinad <leinad>
Subject: Re: Pipe for bending leading edge
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, January 24, 2009, 10:11 PM

Quote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: "leinad"<leinad>Wade,That's the method I was going to use, but what type of pipe did you use? Is it PVC? Do you think PVC would work?Danwjones(at)brazoriainet.co wrote:> Hey Dan ,I had good results using this method. Wade Jones � � � � � > > Note: or receiving certain types of file attachments. Check your e-mailsecurity--------Scratch building XL with Corvair EngineRead this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=226625#226625Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_2528_2_174.jpg< -->
Quote:
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:05 am    Post subject: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

I bent my Sonex leading edge skin using the Vacuum method with a PVC
pipe, worked just fine. There is no bending force on the pipe.

Bruce Johonson
Plans Building a Sonex in Schertz TX
On Gear.

leinad wrote:
Quote:


William,
I've seen the video. It has been awhile, but I remember it differently. I thought they were using a steel pipe.
Ron is great proponent of the table top bending jig method, and I'm sure it can work and do a good job. I'm looking at using the vacuum method for a couple of reason, maybe not good ones, but here they are. I used the table top method with the stabelizer leading edge and the results weren't so good. There is slight, and if I pointed it out to you you'd notice it, curve to the leading edge. It results in the middle being higher than the tips. It's installed on the plane now, but I think I'm going to remake that part. Also I made my table in 2 sections, one 8 foot long the other 4 foot long. Third, it seams like you'd have better control with the vacuum, you could apply it slowly and not feel like you're wrestling with it.
Here's my thinking on not needing a rigid tube. It should be similar to folding a sheet of paper which can result in a perfectly straight line with out any guide at all. I think all one should have to do is draw a straight line on the material. Place the tube on that line, and hold it in place with a few pieces of duct tape. The force of the vacuum is going to be very constant along the entire length of the bend. This is complete conjectures on my part. Jeff has already spoken up and said the tube must be rigid. Jeff was this from experience from vacuum forming using PVC, or your best guess?
Short of any replies based on real experience I may purchase some aluminum flashing and try a scaled down test, perhaps using something really flimsy as radius guide.
Dan

[quote="William Dominguez"]I remember seeing a video in youtube with some guys bending the nose skin for a Sonex. If I remember correctly, they used a PVC tube. I don't find the video right now but if I find it, I'll post the link.

I have considered the table method described in CH601.org but my table is very heavy and have lot of things stored in it, my floor is not perfectly flat and my workshop does not provide enough clearance to easily turn the table upside down. I'll be using the vacuum method as well.

William Dominguez
Zodiac 601XL Plans
Miami Florida
http://www.geocities.com/bill_dom



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 10:41 am    Post subject: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

Ya, I did my Sonerai wing skins with the vacuum method, it works like magic.
But, be sure to have something limiting the bend radius, it works to fast to
do it by hand (I used a 2" pvc pipe)

Roger

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leinad



Joined: 19 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 7:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

I got one nose skin bent today. Using the vacuum method it went well. I ran out of time (had to go to a Super Bowl party) before I finished the second one. I used steel pipe, which I had to join because the longest lengths I could find were 10 feet.
THere are pictures on my web site at:
http://daniel.dempseyfamily.us/zodiac/index.html


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 7:49 pm    Post subject: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote



Just a question, I have always been told to check cable tension in the middle of the cable run and not at the ends. It has beena very long time since I have checked any cables so not sure this is true. Have you compared the cable tension at the end and in the middle of the run? Jerry of GA DO NOT ARCHIVE


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Ron Lendon



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 8:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

Looking good Dan, hope your team won. Did ya get any pictures with the vacuum applied and the part totally collapsed?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 4:58 am    Post subject: Re: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

I t does not look as though you drilled holes in the pipe? I drilled holes along one side down the pipes length for the stab and elevator skins. I assume that you let the vac suck out one end inside the plastic? This is interesting, because I don't want to ruin another pipe by drilling holes in it when I do my wing skin!
do not archive

Kevin


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leinad



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 9:47 am    Post subject: Re: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

Ron,
No I didn't. I picked up the camera to shoot one, but just about the time I was ready to take the picture a hole developed in the plastic and let the air out. The part was already bent, so I saw no use in fixing the hole just for a picture. I'll try again next time, maybe ask for an assistant on that issue.
Dan

Ron Lendon wrote:
Looking good Dan, hope your team won. Did ya get any pictures with the vacuum applied and the part totally collapsed?


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leinad



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 9:59 am    Post subject: Re: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

Kevin,
I may drill holes for the next one. The pipe has already been claimed for a couple of closet rods, so a few holes won't matter. I had a very thin wall piece of brass pipe from a sink drain in a pile of junk and I took that and crushed one end in the vice. This became my "nozzle" which I fastened to the end of the vacuum cleaner hose. It worked OK but was hard to tape in place.
One thing I'm not certain about is whether I'll regret not drilling the rivet holes before bending. Has anyone done it that way? I'm going to have to lay all my holes out on a now curved surface.
Dan

kmccune wrote:
I t does not look as though you drilled holes in the pipe? I drilled holes along one side down the pipes length for the stab and elevator skins. I assume that you let the vac suck out one end inside the plastic? This is interesting, because I don't want to ruin another pipe by drilling holes in it when I do my wing skin!
do not archive

Kevin


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 10:18 am    Post subject: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

Dan, you mean "two flat surfaces with a narrow curved surface in between"...

Carlos

2009/2/2 leinad <leinad(at)hughes.net (leinad(at)hughes.net)>
[quote]--> Zenith-List message posted by: "leinad" <leinad(at)hughes.net (leinad(at)hughes.net)>


...
One thing I'm not certain about is whether I'll regret not drilling the rivet holes before bending. Has anyone done it that way? I'm going to have to lay all my holes out on a now curved surface.
Dan[b]


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 3:28 pm    Post subject: Pipe for bending leading edge Reply with quote

Dan-
No, you can lay out your holes on a flat surface. Use a piece of scrap
sheet and drill your holes in it, then duct tape the stock to your nose skin
and transfer using a Sharpie. I believe Larry Mac's site has pictures. For
an XL, compared to the tapered wing of an HDS, this should be a snap.

Bill
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